Same as last time except now there is 7 questions-
1 Who drove the number 12 car before Ryan Newman?(nextel/winston cup)
2 Who sang the music for Tarzan?
3 What children's movie did the star of House, Hugh Laurie, play a role in?
4 Which disney character is in love with Daisy Duck?
5 What classic disney movie will soon have a sequal coming out?
6 What is the name of the chef on Hell's Kitchen?
7 What is the name of the Dog whisperer?
Again just look online, or answer the ones you know. Yes I know all of them, that is why I asked.
Answers:
1. Mike Wallace
2. Phil Collins
3. Stuart Little and Stuart Little 2
4. Donald Duck
5. The Fox and the Hound 2 Dec. 2006 %26 Cinderella III Feb. 2007
They have also announced a Snow White 2
6. Gordon Ramsey
7. Caesar Milan
no idea sorry
Phil Collins
for Disney
Dont know sorry.
sorry cant help you with that 1
1 . no idea
2. Phil Collins i think
3. Stewart little and Stewart little 2
4. Donald duck
5 . brother bear?
6 . no clue but i know who you are talking about he is a blonde guy with an attitude :P
7 . a dog whisperer? hmm
1. Joel Kauffman
2. Phil Collins
3. Stuart Little
4. Donald Duck
5. Bambi
6. Gordon Ramsay
7. Steve Fryer
I have a ? Why are you posting this in the pet section?
1. er, Jeremy Mayfield?
2. Phil Collins did the music for Disney's 'Tarzan'.
3. He played in 'Stuart Little', as well as a voice in '101 Dalmations' in 1996.
4. Donald Duck
5. 'Toy Story 3' is slated for release 2008. though I don't consider that a Disney classic.
6. Gordon Ramsey
7. Cesar Millan.
Friday, May 8, 2009
Can you give pitocin (oxytocin) to a heifer to make her labor? If so, how much??
We have a cow that is so pregnant she is hardly walking. Can we give her pitocin to induce her, as they do in humans. If so, what dosage do we give, and what route do we give it?
Answers:
yes you can give it. we use it at times, it is also used when a cow does not shed her afterbirth. the dosage will depend on the weight of the cow. contact a vet and they will give you a dosage rating
Oxytocin can be given to most animals but should only be given under the direct supervision of a vet. It could be that your heifer isn't ready to give birth yet. Either way she will need to see a vet. If she is way past her due date and has not given birth she needs to see a vet ASAP.
Call the vet and see how much you should give - if at all. If there is no vet available, just let nature do it's work.
You can give it to just about any animal, I've given it to an egg bound turtle Thing is you can't "just' administer it. You really need to get the vet out there to check her and administer the meds. It's entirely too risky to try that yourself.
Call your vet. This is NOT your call!
This has to be inserted via IV. It is not your place to be doing this, please call a vet if you think she needs some oxytocin to induce labor.
The vet is highly unlikely to induce labor in that cow, and usually they'll have their calf when the calf is ready.
You need to call your vet to ask this question.
Answers:
yes you can give it. we use it at times, it is also used when a cow does not shed her afterbirth. the dosage will depend on the weight of the cow. contact a vet and they will give you a dosage rating
Oxytocin can be given to most animals but should only be given under the direct supervision of a vet. It could be that your heifer isn't ready to give birth yet. Either way she will need to see a vet. If she is way past her due date and has not given birth she needs to see a vet ASAP.
Call the vet and see how much you should give - if at all. If there is no vet available, just let nature do it's work.
You can give it to just about any animal, I've given it to an egg bound turtle Thing is you can't "just' administer it. You really need to get the vet out there to check her and administer the meds. It's entirely too risky to try that yourself.
Call your vet. This is NOT your call!
This has to be inserted via IV. It is not your place to be doing this, please call a vet if you think she needs some oxytocin to induce labor.
The vet is highly unlikely to induce labor in that cow, and usually they'll have their calf when the calf is ready.
You need to call your vet to ask this question.
Can you give me suggestions on what to name my possible now horse?
I MIGHT be getting a horse in the next couple days. We have her picked out, but we're not sure if we're getting her. She has a name, but she's only had it for a few months, so I could change it. Right now her name is Waffles. A possible name that I thought of that is similar was Willow. I'm looking for either a short name, or a long fancy name with maybe like a nickname. Know what I mean? Here are some of her big points that will give you ideas: It's a female (oviously), she's about 20, she is a bay (dark brown hair and black mane and tail), she has a diamond on her forehead, she has a couple white spots on her back, and she has 3 white feet and one black one. That's all I can think of. Thanks!
Answers:
how about cappuchino cream
"horse *"
Willow is a good name. Or Diamond, Beauty, Lady, etc. Something simple, but nice. Good Luck!! :)
Why don't you wanna stick with the name she has? Otherwise you might be confusing the horse. Waffles is a cute name, I would just keep it like that.
My aunt had a horse that sounds remarably like yours. Her name was Midsummer Night's Dream, and we called her Summer for short.
on this show i watch has a horse that looks excatly what ur horse sounds like.her name was colvolt.here r some other names, colvolt, snowball, camanchi, and other names that i cant remember..! hope this helps!!
I love the name Willow, but here are some other options.
Whisper
Whinny
Sadie
Chella
Fawna
Meadow
Whitney
Winter
Good Luck!
How about Majesty?
My mare's name is chika, its a cute name. i went through a lot of trouble naming her too.
Call her Sadie or Abbie.
Your horse is an adult-you shouldn't change her name now-but if you do-it should "sound" like the one she has. I mean, it should have the same number of syllables and stress the same syllable as her original name. Like Wilma could become Mocha or Jazz could become Maz or Taz. Understand? So you could try Raffles, Baffles, Tassels. Good luck.
STARR is a nice name and if u want a whole name STARLITE
wut about honey, sasha, toby, taco, tash
If she's registered or papered, look at the history of names in her/his lineage. Usually horses carry part of either the sire or dame's name (That's horse talk for mom and dad!). Our last horse was named after his sire, Cutty Sark and his name was Cutty Sark Over.
gem(ma)
Artex. u know like the horse from neverending story if u've seen that movie. the horse was white and very beautiful
Answers:
how about cappuchino cream
"horse *"
Willow is a good name. Or Diamond, Beauty, Lady, etc. Something simple, but nice. Good Luck!! :)
Why don't you wanna stick with the name she has? Otherwise you might be confusing the horse. Waffles is a cute name, I would just keep it like that.
My aunt had a horse that sounds remarably like yours. Her name was Midsummer Night's Dream, and we called her Summer for short.
on this show i watch has a horse that looks excatly what ur horse sounds like.her name was colvolt.here r some other names, colvolt, snowball, camanchi, and other names that i cant remember..! hope this helps!!
I love the name Willow, but here are some other options.
Whisper
Whinny
Sadie
Chella
Fawna
Meadow
Whitney
Winter
Good Luck!
How about Majesty?
My mare's name is chika, its a cute name. i went through a lot of trouble naming her too.
Call her Sadie or Abbie.
Your horse is an adult-you shouldn't change her name now-but if you do-it should "sound" like the one she has. I mean, it should have the same number of syllables and stress the same syllable as her original name. Like Wilma could become Mocha or Jazz could become Maz or Taz. Understand? So you could try Raffles, Baffles, Tassels. Good luck.
STARR is a nice name and if u want a whole name STARLITE
wut about honey, sasha, toby, taco, tash
If she's registered or papered, look at the history of names in her/his lineage. Usually horses carry part of either the sire or dame's name (That's horse talk for mom and dad!). Our last horse was named after his sire, Cutty Sark and his name was Cutty Sark Over.
gem(ma)
Artex. u know like the horse from neverending story if u've seen that movie. the horse was white and very beautiful
can you give me some tips on guinea pigs?
i would really like to surprise my daughter on christmas with two little guinea pigs,but i don't know a thing about them.can you help a girl out?
Answers:
Before I start giving care advice, I want to encourage you to research piggies alot before getting them. They are wonderful pets who can be a world and a half of fun. They are highly intellegent and very loving little creatures. They do, however, require care appropriate to their species. I also want to suggest finding some forums or Yahoo! Groups about piggies. They can be a wonderful help to you as you and your daughter are learning about her new pets and if they ever become ill. Ok, the following is a very basic care guide. There is much more to know about piggies, but I'd be here all day if I tried to cover everything.
Housing
Guinea Pigs need to be kept in well ventilated, draft free, solid bottom cages. Wire bottom cages can seriously damage your Guinea Pig's sensitive feet and foot sores can be deadly. Their cages must be kept clean and dry or your Guinea Pig may get sick. Cedar and Pine shavings should be avoided as they have been found to cause liver damage and could kill your Guinea Pig. They may also irritate your Guinea Pigs respiratory system. A bedding made from paper, aspen shavings, kiln-dried pine, hay, or cloth is safer. IMPORTANT! Guinea Pigs should NOT be housed with rabbits. For futher information on why visit http://www.rspcareadingguineapigs.co.uk/.
Feeding
Guinea Pigs need to be fed a diet of timothy-based Guinea Pig food to get the proper nutrition. They should also have a constant supply of timothy hay to help with digestion. IMPORTANT! Guinea Pigs need Vitamin C or they could get scurvy and eventually die. Most Guinea Pig foods have the Vitamin C required by your pet, other rodent foods do not. Vegetables high in Vitamin C given daily are a good way to ensure they are getting the Vitamin C they need. Guinea Pigs do NOT eat seeds naturally. They are grazers and feeding them seed mixes will make them unhealthy and could choke them. Plain pelleted food is healthier and safer and is typically even cheaper. They should be fed in a heavy bottomed food dish to prevent them from dumping their food on the bottom of their cage.
Guinea Pigs need a clean, constant supply of water. This is best given with a hanging water bottle so the Guinea Pig does not soil it's water. The water bottle should be cleaned regularly with a small baby bottle brush.
Grooming
Guinea Pigs only need baths if they get particularly dirty otherwise they keep themselves clean. Your Guinea Pig may be brushed with a soft cat brush to remove loose hairs. Long haired breeds need extensive grooming and are not recommended for beginners.
Handling
Always hold your Guinea Pig with two hands securely and supporting its body. Children should be supervised while handling any animal. Guinea Pigs should only be allowed out of their cages and allowed to play under supervision and in enclosed "piggy safe" areas.
i heard they eat them in peru
fairly easy to deal with. just have to keep their nails trimmed and give them a block of wood to keep their teeth short, cage needs cleaned regularly, once a week or so, they say cedar chips for the bedding arent the best but ive never had a problem with it, them being handled is always good, keeps them socialized and not biting, they cant sweat so during the summer keep them cool, and if it gets too cool u can always put a towel or something around part of the cage, they feel really safe if you build or buy them something to hide in (as in a little house, 3 walls and a flat roof pretty much). they love their veggies. if u ever had questions you could just call the pet store and theyd help you out. or theres plenty of books out there.
OK what do you need to know? They come from a foreign country I think it's New Guinea? No ideal. They are very fragile animals. If not handled right you could really badly hurt them! Wire cages are the best for them because it allows some air flow in an aquarium there air is limited. They vitamin c so you'll need to give them slices of oranges. They like hay, or at least mine did. When you go to the pet store to pick them out make sure that it is friendly and doesn't try to bite when you pick them up because if they do bite that either means that they are naturally mean or they a sick and in pain. The short hairs are the easiest to take care of and have fewer health problems. They need salt to. Make sure that you buy them a cage that they will grow into and when they get full size it still is a good size for them. Give them something to do in their cage like a tube or a tennis ball. You'll also need a water bottle, feed dish, and a hay rack. There is also a spray that you use to clean them and then you just wipe it off. Also a wood hut that they can go into if they get scared. If they need to get their teeth down they can chew on that too. Also get males, they are friendlier! Good Luck!
i had one when i was like 3 and it died when i was in third grade. so it doesnt have the livespan of a dog or cat so i would not consider it ( my guinea pig died of old age) there is special food you have to buy for it. you could get it at Petco or Petsmart or Walmart. you have to get an appropiate cage for it. one with a smooth bottom and wire around it. you need shavings of some kind.i would recomend aspen shavings because that way your guinea pig wont have respitory problems(if you use shavings with oils it will cause respitory problems with small animals) you need a water dish or a water dispenser (the water dispencer is easier so you dont get the shavings in the water). well thats about all i know.
Good luck
Do not buy a boy and girl, they breed quicker than rabbits. I suggest two girls as two boys will fight.
They make lovely pets if treated right.
There easy to care for. They do nothing but eat and poop. We use to fill there cage with fresh grass and watch them eat there way out. A hamster is much more entertaining
Guinea pigs take a lot of special daily care to keep them healthy. I know mine (5) are over 6 years old, I could spend an hour on here instructing you but the webs are fun to explore. Piggies are really fun if you take the effort to take proper care of them.So here ya go.
Guinea pigs make excellent pets, for ages four and up, with supervision of course, unlike hamster and gerbils they are less likely to bite and do not smell if you are changing their cage on a regular basic, Do not you cedar shaving, as they are dangerous to the piggies. I run a rescue and we have placed 1,950 piggies in loving forever homes. Keep in mind when getting a piggy (please adopt) for your child keep in mind that you will be the primary care giver. We get a lot of owner turn ins. The main reason is child lost interest in caring for it. They are easy to care for you need an plastic bottom cage wire on top, bedding, woody pet, care fresh, yesterdays news, or aspen are all fine, a commercial grain for guinea pigs, as the need victim C fresh fruits and veggies, water and hay, alfalfa under six months timothy over 6 month. Oh yes and lots of love,
Try this listed link if in the event you would like to know more about the
http://www.guinealynx.info/
If you would like to adopt a homeless piggy try
http://www.petfinder.com/
Top left corner click BREED (click for list)鈥?. Click
SMALL AND FURRY 鈥?.click
Guinea Pig鈥︹€lick
It will then ask you for your zip code; it will list all available piggies
In addition, if you would like to look around ours I did post it, happy piggy hunting.
http://www.petfinder.com/shelters/nj250..
If you go with a rescue you will leave know how to take care of them, they will also be guaranteed to be healthy and not pregnant which is not always the case with larger pet store, I will not name names as that would be rude and mean all at the same time.
Answers:
Before I start giving care advice, I want to encourage you to research piggies alot before getting them. They are wonderful pets who can be a world and a half of fun. They are highly intellegent and very loving little creatures. They do, however, require care appropriate to their species. I also want to suggest finding some forums or Yahoo! Groups about piggies. They can be a wonderful help to you as you and your daughter are learning about her new pets and if they ever become ill. Ok, the following is a very basic care guide. There is much more to know about piggies, but I'd be here all day if I tried to cover everything.
Housing
Guinea Pigs need to be kept in well ventilated, draft free, solid bottom cages. Wire bottom cages can seriously damage your Guinea Pig's sensitive feet and foot sores can be deadly. Their cages must be kept clean and dry or your Guinea Pig may get sick. Cedar and Pine shavings should be avoided as they have been found to cause liver damage and could kill your Guinea Pig. They may also irritate your Guinea Pigs respiratory system. A bedding made from paper, aspen shavings, kiln-dried pine, hay, or cloth is safer. IMPORTANT! Guinea Pigs should NOT be housed with rabbits. For futher information on why visit http://www.rspcareadingguineapigs.co.uk/.
Feeding
Guinea Pigs need to be fed a diet of timothy-based Guinea Pig food to get the proper nutrition. They should also have a constant supply of timothy hay to help with digestion. IMPORTANT! Guinea Pigs need Vitamin C or they could get scurvy and eventually die. Most Guinea Pig foods have the Vitamin C required by your pet, other rodent foods do not. Vegetables high in Vitamin C given daily are a good way to ensure they are getting the Vitamin C they need. Guinea Pigs do NOT eat seeds naturally. They are grazers and feeding them seed mixes will make them unhealthy and could choke them. Plain pelleted food is healthier and safer and is typically even cheaper. They should be fed in a heavy bottomed food dish to prevent them from dumping their food on the bottom of their cage.
Guinea Pigs need a clean, constant supply of water. This is best given with a hanging water bottle so the Guinea Pig does not soil it's water. The water bottle should be cleaned regularly with a small baby bottle brush.
Grooming
Guinea Pigs only need baths if they get particularly dirty otherwise they keep themselves clean. Your Guinea Pig may be brushed with a soft cat brush to remove loose hairs. Long haired breeds need extensive grooming and are not recommended for beginners.
Handling
Always hold your Guinea Pig with two hands securely and supporting its body. Children should be supervised while handling any animal. Guinea Pigs should only be allowed out of their cages and allowed to play under supervision and in enclosed "piggy safe" areas.
i heard they eat them in peru
fairly easy to deal with. just have to keep their nails trimmed and give them a block of wood to keep their teeth short, cage needs cleaned regularly, once a week or so, they say cedar chips for the bedding arent the best but ive never had a problem with it, them being handled is always good, keeps them socialized and not biting, they cant sweat so during the summer keep them cool, and if it gets too cool u can always put a towel or something around part of the cage, they feel really safe if you build or buy them something to hide in (as in a little house, 3 walls and a flat roof pretty much). they love their veggies. if u ever had questions you could just call the pet store and theyd help you out. or theres plenty of books out there.
OK what do you need to know? They come from a foreign country I think it's New Guinea? No ideal. They are very fragile animals. If not handled right you could really badly hurt them! Wire cages are the best for them because it allows some air flow in an aquarium there air is limited. They vitamin c so you'll need to give them slices of oranges. They like hay, or at least mine did. When you go to the pet store to pick them out make sure that it is friendly and doesn't try to bite when you pick them up because if they do bite that either means that they are naturally mean or they a sick and in pain. The short hairs are the easiest to take care of and have fewer health problems. They need salt to. Make sure that you buy them a cage that they will grow into and when they get full size it still is a good size for them. Give them something to do in their cage like a tube or a tennis ball. You'll also need a water bottle, feed dish, and a hay rack. There is also a spray that you use to clean them and then you just wipe it off. Also a wood hut that they can go into if they get scared. If they need to get their teeth down they can chew on that too. Also get males, they are friendlier! Good Luck!
i had one when i was like 3 and it died when i was in third grade. so it doesnt have the livespan of a dog or cat so i would not consider it ( my guinea pig died of old age) there is special food you have to buy for it. you could get it at Petco or Petsmart or Walmart. you have to get an appropiate cage for it. one with a smooth bottom and wire around it. you need shavings of some kind.i would recomend aspen shavings because that way your guinea pig wont have respitory problems(if you use shavings with oils it will cause respitory problems with small animals) you need a water dish or a water dispenser (the water dispencer is easier so you dont get the shavings in the water). well thats about all i know.
Good luck
Do not buy a boy and girl, they breed quicker than rabbits. I suggest two girls as two boys will fight.
They make lovely pets if treated right.
There easy to care for. They do nothing but eat and poop. We use to fill there cage with fresh grass and watch them eat there way out. A hamster is much more entertaining
Guinea pigs take a lot of special daily care to keep them healthy. I know mine (5) are over 6 years old, I could spend an hour on here instructing you but the webs are fun to explore. Piggies are really fun if you take the effort to take proper care of them.So here ya go.
Guinea pigs make excellent pets, for ages four and up, with supervision of course, unlike hamster and gerbils they are less likely to bite and do not smell if you are changing their cage on a regular basic, Do not you cedar shaving, as they are dangerous to the piggies. I run a rescue and we have placed 1,950 piggies in loving forever homes. Keep in mind when getting a piggy (please adopt) for your child keep in mind that you will be the primary care giver. We get a lot of owner turn ins. The main reason is child lost interest in caring for it. They are easy to care for you need an plastic bottom cage wire on top, bedding, woody pet, care fresh, yesterdays news, or aspen are all fine, a commercial grain for guinea pigs, as the need victim C fresh fruits and veggies, water and hay, alfalfa under six months timothy over 6 month. Oh yes and lots of love,
Try this listed link if in the event you would like to know more about the
http://www.guinealynx.info/
If you would like to adopt a homeless piggy try
http://www.petfinder.com/
Top left corner click BREED (click for list)鈥?. Click
SMALL AND FURRY 鈥?.click
Guinea Pig鈥︹€lick
It will then ask you for your zip code; it will list all available piggies
In addition, if you would like to look around ours I did post it, happy piggy hunting.
http://www.petfinder.com/shelters/nj250..
If you go with a rescue you will leave know how to take care of them, they will also be guaranteed to be healthy and not pregnant which is not always the case with larger pet store, I will not name names as that would be rude and mean all at the same time.
Can you give me some advice with a horse problem?
I just bought a 12-year-old Morgan gelding. Sweet, but of course somewhat nervous since we just moved him to a new home. His previous owner liked to run him all the time - he won't stand for mounting, is impatient in the trailer, and wants to zoom off the minute you hit the saddle. I need to reprogram him - 1) to get some patience and stand still in the trailer, while tied, and for mounting, and 2) to walk off and change gaits when I ask only. Where do I start? Thanks!
Answers:
to make him more friendly and to trust you more dont ride him try parelli its a really good program course
www.parelli.com
My answer to most problems with horses is start with ground work. You need to work on lunging and getting your horses respect. When you work the horse from the ground make him work hard any time he is away from you, when he is resting, he needs to stand quietly next to you. If he starts to move away make him work HARD. You become the quiet safe place. This is usually a good way to start. Then do the same thing under saddle, in a round pen. Mount up, if the horse moves, get off and lunge, make him WORK, try again.usually 2-3 lessons and the horse is standing still when you get on.. Tie him up, if he stands quiet leave him be, if he's pawing/dancing in place, make him work. He'll get the idea that if he wants to dance/prance, your going to make him work twice as hard..
i suggest getting a good trainer to help you out.
Learning to stand patiently involves LOTS of standing tied. Let him stand while you do barn work, brushing, working with other horses and any other time you can. This will automatically help his general patience. For mounting and riding do so lunge line work then starrt riding while someone lunges him. I also practiced mounting while tied, this helps alot but don't try if you aren't confident that he won't blow up. Moving some and realizing he has to wait is acceptable because thats what he's learning. My trainer wound trot them in a tiny circle for as long as it took to stand. This works well and only takes a time or two but can take an hour or more. Start to mount if he moves hold the closer rein and send him in circles, you stay still and don't take the reins over his head. Eventually they figure out moving isn't worth the extra work but you need to be very consistant. Good luck
Hello I train horses so I think I have the answer your looking for . so here is what I would do if I had your horse
1) to get him to stand whil u get on and to keep him still untell you are ready to ride off ___ A) first tack him up B) act like your going to get on him go to put your foot in the sturp . so u have your left foot in the sturup taks the left rain and pull his head up sloce to you so hes bending him neck around to look at you and hold his head there as you clime up on him . c) don't let his head go yet wait about 20 seconds after your sitting in the saddle before you let his head go.
2) Now you need to do some simple extersizes it will teach your horse to slow down in the long run and be more pationat and this will help later on with the horse trailer ok a) start out walking your horse it dont matter what direction you go in ( you should be in a fenced area) I would say walk him about 10 steps or less and reach half way down your rain and pull his head to the side and grab the saddle any place , the horne or the side of your sturup not to tight the first few times but grab and hold fermly ( your horse will walkina cercal) dont let go untell your horses feet stop moving the second his fet stop you let the rain go then do this all over again but this time do it from the other side keep doing thisfor about 1/2 hr then put him away then the next day do it all over again . you can teach this lesson from the ground also if your a good horse handler this one extersize is the best foundation you can give your horse . I hope this helps if you want more help please e-mail me and I will help you (whinnies_horse_training@yahoo. ) Terri
your first thing is to teach him to stand. Tie him. If you have a washing rack like at the arenas. where he can not shift left and right. And leave him there. Do not leave him to long in a trailer. If he gets scared he might rear up and hit his head. When you tie him make sure he has little spare room so he can not turn his head, or jump over a rail. This could take multiple days for him to calm down. Mabey give him grain while being tied. Make sure the grain is neck level so he does not get caught. After a while you can saddle and get on him. Leaving him tied. If he has nowhere to go he can not take off. Once you get up there make sure you pat him and let him know how good he is not to run. I have had tonz of horses that did this, I had one I also had to just let run. He ran for a long time before he finally quite though. But that would be your second option. You can e-mail me at sr22racing@yahoo.com and I can also give you more info on whatever you might need.
well lets see, ground work him first. He is going to have to respect your command now! Basically, you have a 2year old on your hands! What i think you should(i greenbroke a barrel racing champion)do is your going to have to work with him non stop! For ground breaking him put all your riding gear on him and lunge him, dont let him canter or trot until you give him the command to. Oh reward him everytime that he listens to you! the trailer thing is going to be hard, he might have had a bad experience in the trailer, so he is scared when he is in there. Put him in the trailer frequently throughout the day, but stand there with him to relax him. He has to put his trust in you, like Joining up. The mounting situation what you do is everytime he moves pull his reins back, punish him, not badly, just let him know what he did was wrong! I hope you have some good luck with him! If you have more questions you can always email me! I am actually going into horse boarding this spring. Good luck!
If he is staying in a stall right now let him go out in a paddock with another nice horse all day. This will let him get his energy out and let him be a horse. Right after you put his saddle let him in your areana or paddock or round pen and let him run around without a rider. This will let him get out all the energy he has from when you put the saddle on him. Start with that. I used to be at a stable where they hung ropes down from the trees and tied their horses there half the day. At first i thought they where crazy but them I saw how the horses acted after a few minutes. They will paw, whinny, rear, buck, weave, and get so annoyed but then they firgure out they are just fighting themselves and settle down. It teaches them that they can stand still. When your mounting have someone hold him. Then just make him stand there after you get on. A harsher bit will make him slow down a little. A slow twist or thin snaffle. It's not being mean just matching the horse to his bit. If he likes to toss his head (I know most morgans do) try a tie down or martengale. Morgan's usaully have a lot of energy so just keep that in mind. He proabaly always be a little fast.
Sounds like you have a hand full. There are no easy answers here. Do you have a riding pen? I would lead him to the riding pen and work with him on a lead rope, everyday. DO NOT MOUNT HIM! Stay off his back for a little while. Get him use to you. Walk him around the pen, leading him, jog by him, using verbal commands. Make him stand still, using a verbal command, such as stand, when he walks forward, use your halt command, and say stand again. You are teaching him patience with out whips and chains. If he takes off out of the stand position, by goodness let him go, do not chase him, do NOT hold onto the lead, if he is in a pen there are no worries. Make sure this is a dirt training pen, nothing exciting there for him, just you. Eventually he will get bored and come to you for excitement and see what you are up to. After about two weeks of this for a mimium of 4 hours a day, and there is improvement, put a saddle him and then a bridle. Lead him around using verbal commands, your walk, trot, NO GALLOPING (because you are not suppose to be on him), halt command, stand command, do this same as before for the same length of time, then start to work him on a longe rope. Using all your verbal commands and work up to a canter, if he breaks gait without the proper command stop him and start over. He will soon find that he has much more fun listening to you than standing alone in a pile of sand with nothing to do if you ignore him when he breaks from you. I use to bring an apple in the pen with me so that if the horse broke from me I would go over to a blanket I bought in spread it out, eat my apple and have a drink of water. Pretty soon the horse gets the picture that you will have all the break time you need with him, if he continues to behave in such a way. When my horse would finally approach me, I would talk to her, pet her, and give her a small bit of apple if there was some left, I would NOT instantly grab her lead! I would simply turn my back and walk away from her, pretty soon she would follow. I wouldn't even begin to mount him until after a month of this ground work. Then when you do, mount with one foot only and see if he moves, if he does dismount, use the stand command and try again, if he moves, walk away from him. When he has stayed completely still for you swing the other leg over, make him stand for a few seconds and then walk command around the pen, WALK only for a while. Work into a trot, starting and stopping if he breaks gait. Work in this fashion up to canter. BELIEVE it or NOT all this hard work will pay off. Within a month or two at the most you find yourself riding across the open with a steady horse. All of this work should steady him in a trailer as well. PATIENCE is the key here. If you continue this ground work you could get him to the point where he will follow you to his stall without even having to touch his lead rope or his halter. If you have to snap your fingers to get his attention and to stay focused on you instead of looking off in the distance then do it. Keep his eye on you. Make it as fun as possible for the two of you even though it is a lot of work. Your horse just needs to learn what you want. The previous owner spent years running this horse, it won't change over night.
Good Luck
You do have to go back to ground work and lunge work. I don't like using round pens for lunge work, so you just need a lunge line. Use it with a very simple bit, preferable a jointed full cheek or a jointed loose ring snaffle. He needs to learn voice commands.
Start with a lead line walking around. When you start to walk forward, cluck to him and say "Walk" and at the same time bring your shoulders forward with an exaggerated/obvious motion. When you want him to stop pull back on the lead line and with an assertive voice (doesn't mean loud or forceful, say it because you know your horse is going to obey) say "Whoa" while at the same time square your shoulders back. These little visual cues will help your horse learn the vocal cues. He'll pick up your visual signals then associate them with the vocal cues. Eventually you won't have to exaggerate your shoulder movement and it will be barely noticable, except to your horse. Sometimes after you stop, just make your horse stand just for a minute at first then gradually lengthen the time you are just standing with him. You will be so incredibly bored! Don't forget the fly spray either or it will be torture. Ultimately he should stand for 10 minutes without moving a hoof. It's a long time to do absolutely nothing! *laughs* Don't let him graze or sniff around. He can look around all he wants, but he can't move his feet. If he moves his feet say "whoa" with a quick pull of the line then act like nothing happened. If he stands for another 5 seconds, move him off at the walk. Try again for a longer time before you put him up.
Never say "whoa" to slow down. "Whoa" now and forever means STOP! You can use the word "slow" for now on when he gets too fast, but save that for a later lesson. So for a session or two just walk around on a lead line stopping and walking at random points, never the same place. If your horse likes the trail, walk with him down the trail still working on stopping and walking.
Move up to lunge work whenever your horse picks up the stop and walk vocal cues. You can now teach your horse additional vocal cues, focusing on one at a time like "trot", "canter" and then "slow". To teach slow when on the lunge, get your horse into a trot or canter and when you say "slow" make a quick jerk with the lunge line to get your horse's attention. If he slows tell him good boy and leave his face alone and let him be for a minute. If he breaks, that's fine because he just did what you wanted and slowed down. :)
Everything that he learns on the lunge, all those vocal commands, will be transfered to undersaddle work. So walk, trot, canter, slow and whoa are now your tools, along with your regular cues. Practice, practice, practice.
Since your horse now knows "Whoa", you can use that for when you're mounting. Since he's so use to being ran as soon as the butt hits the saddle, just let your horse walk forward if he does move off when your mounted. My horse is an OTTB, which when being mounted, the horses never even stop walking as the jockey is thrown aboard. As soon as I would get in the saddle she would immediately start walking really fast. I would just let her settle down and walk until she relaxed, then continued our lesson. Eventually she didn't walk off in such a hurry, then one day she didn't move at all. I gave her a big pat and a good girl and let her stand for as long as she wanted. When she walked away by her own choice I let her. With this strategy she realized I wasn't going to make her run as soon as I got on and now after only two months, she'll stand when I mount long enough for me to adjust myself in the saddle, check the girth and my stirrups and then ask her to move forward. If she takes a step or I feel her weight shift I say "whoa" and she stands.
I would suggest doing this with your horse.
I would give u a long answer but I see u already have a few of them. But most important to remember is have a lot of patience and don't punish bad behavior but always reward good behavior.
My horse used to never stand for mounting..
I would walk up like I was going to get on, and as soon as he started to walk I grabbed the rein closes to me (left) so his head was pulled in. This will make him walk in a tight circle. Now the second he stops walking release the pressure and try to get on. If he starts walking again repeat. It will only take a couple of days for him to learn.
Please don't take this offensively, but I have a question. If he was so high strung what made you get him..? just curious.
Best of luck
You might want to try looking at the same type of transition training they do for retired race horses. Many of the problems you mentioned are similar to that of a horse that used to race. Try this website for some great info.
http://www.horseadoption.com/training.ht.
well i had a horse like that. first before ur gonna ride or trailer him, lunge him. get some of his energy out so he's not so wild and impatient. but that doesn't mean u can't be in control he's just not going to be so wild.
Answers:
to make him more friendly and to trust you more dont ride him try parelli its a really good program course
www.parelli.com
My answer to most problems with horses is start with ground work. You need to work on lunging and getting your horses respect. When you work the horse from the ground make him work hard any time he is away from you, when he is resting, he needs to stand quietly next to you. If he starts to move away make him work HARD. You become the quiet safe place. This is usually a good way to start. Then do the same thing under saddle, in a round pen. Mount up, if the horse moves, get off and lunge, make him WORK, try again.usually 2-3 lessons and the horse is standing still when you get on.. Tie him up, if he stands quiet leave him be, if he's pawing/dancing in place, make him work. He'll get the idea that if he wants to dance/prance, your going to make him work twice as hard..
i suggest getting a good trainer to help you out.
Learning to stand patiently involves LOTS of standing tied. Let him stand while you do barn work, brushing, working with other horses and any other time you can. This will automatically help his general patience. For mounting and riding do so lunge line work then starrt riding while someone lunges him. I also practiced mounting while tied, this helps alot but don't try if you aren't confident that he won't blow up. Moving some and realizing he has to wait is acceptable because thats what he's learning. My trainer wound trot them in a tiny circle for as long as it took to stand. This works well and only takes a time or two but can take an hour or more. Start to mount if he moves hold the closer rein and send him in circles, you stay still and don't take the reins over his head. Eventually they figure out moving isn't worth the extra work but you need to be very consistant. Good luck
Hello I train horses so I think I have the answer your looking for . so here is what I would do if I had your horse
1) to get him to stand whil u get on and to keep him still untell you are ready to ride off ___ A) first tack him up B) act like your going to get on him go to put your foot in the sturp . so u have your left foot in the sturup taks the left rain and pull his head up sloce to you so hes bending him neck around to look at you and hold his head there as you clime up on him . c) don't let his head go yet wait about 20 seconds after your sitting in the saddle before you let his head go.
2) Now you need to do some simple extersizes it will teach your horse to slow down in the long run and be more pationat and this will help later on with the horse trailer ok a) start out walking your horse it dont matter what direction you go in ( you should be in a fenced area) I would say walk him about 10 steps or less and reach half way down your rain and pull his head to the side and grab the saddle any place , the horne or the side of your sturup not to tight the first few times but grab and hold fermly ( your horse will walkina cercal) dont let go untell your horses feet stop moving the second his fet stop you let the rain go then do this all over again but this time do it from the other side keep doing thisfor about 1/2 hr then put him away then the next day do it all over again . you can teach this lesson from the ground also if your a good horse handler this one extersize is the best foundation you can give your horse . I hope this helps if you want more help please e-mail me and I will help you (whinnies_horse_training@yahoo. ) Terri
your first thing is to teach him to stand. Tie him. If you have a washing rack like at the arenas. where he can not shift left and right. And leave him there. Do not leave him to long in a trailer. If he gets scared he might rear up and hit his head. When you tie him make sure he has little spare room so he can not turn his head, or jump over a rail. This could take multiple days for him to calm down. Mabey give him grain while being tied. Make sure the grain is neck level so he does not get caught. After a while you can saddle and get on him. Leaving him tied. If he has nowhere to go he can not take off. Once you get up there make sure you pat him and let him know how good he is not to run. I have had tonz of horses that did this, I had one I also had to just let run. He ran for a long time before he finally quite though. But that would be your second option. You can e-mail me at sr22racing@yahoo.com and I can also give you more info on whatever you might need.
well lets see, ground work him first. He is going to have to respect your command now! Basically, you have a 2year old on your hands! What i think you should(i greenbroke a barrel racing champion)do is your going to have to work with him non stop! For ground breaking him put all your riding gear on him and lunge him, dont let him canter or trot until you give him the command to. Oh reward him everytime that he listens to you! the trailer thing is going to be hard, he might have had a bad experience in the trailer, so he is scared when he is in there. Put him in the trailer frequently throughout the day, but stand there with him to relax him. He has to put his trust in you, like Joining up. The mounting situation what you do is everytime he moves pull his reins back, punish him, not badly, just let him know what he did was wrong! I hope you have some good luck with him! If you have more questions you can always email me! I am actually going into horse boarding this spring. Good luck!
If he is staying in a stall right now let him go out in a paddock with another nice horse all day. This will let him get his energy out and let him be a horse. Right after you put his saddle let him in your areana or paddock or round pen and let him run around without a rider. This will let him get out all the energy he has from when you put the saddle on him. Start with that. I used to be at a stable where they hung ropes down from the trees and tied their horses there half the day. At first i thought they where crazy but them I saw how the horses acted after a few minutes. They will paw, whinny, rear, buck, weave, and get so annoyed but then they firgure out they are just fighting themselves and settle down. It teaches them that they can stand still. When your mounting have someone hold him. Then just make him stand there after you get on. A harsher bit will make him slow down a little. A slow twist or thin snaffle. It's not being mean just matching the horse to his bit. If he likes to toss his head (I know most morgans do) try a tie down or martengale. Morgan's usaully have a lot of energy so just keep that in mind. He proabaly always be a little fast.
Sounds like you have a hand full. There are no easy answers here. Do you have a riding pen? I would lead him to the riding pen and work with him on a lead rope, everyday. DO NOT MOUNT HIM! Stay off his back for a little while. Get him use to you. Walk him around the pen, leading him, jog by him, using verbal commands. Make him stand still, using a verbal command, such as stand, when he walks forward, use your halt command, and say stand again. You are teaching him patience with out whips and chains. If he takes off out of the stand position, by goodness let him go, do not chase him, do NOT hold onto the lead, if he is in a pen there are no worries. Make sure this is a dirt training pen, nothing exciting there for him, just you. Eventually he will get bored and come to you for excitement and see what you are up to. After about two weeks of this for a mimium of 4 hours a day, and there is improvement, put a saddle him and then a bridle. Lead him around using verbal commands, your walk, trot, NO GALLOPING (because you are not suppose to be on him), halt command, stand command, do this same as before for the same length of time, then start to work him on a longe rope. Using all your verbal commands and work up to a canter, if he breaks gait without the proper command stop him and start over. He will soon find that he has much more fun listening to you than standing alone in a pile of sand with nothing to do if you ignore him when he breaks from you. I use to bring an apple in the pen with me so that if the horse broke from me I would go over to a blanket I bought in spread it out, eat my apple and have a drink of water. Pretty soon the horse gets the picture that you will have all the break time you need with him, if he continues to behave in such a way. When my horse would finally approach me, I would talk to her, pet her, and give her a small bit of apple if there was some left, I would NOT instantly grab her lead! I would simply turn my back and walk away from her, pretty soon she would follow. I wouldn't even begin to mount him until after a month of this ground work. Then when you do, mount with one foot only and see if he moves, if he does dismount, use the stand command and try again, if he moves, walk away from him. When he has stayed completely still for you swing the other leg over, make him stand for a few seconds and then walk command around the pen, WALK only for a while. Work into a trot, starting and stopping if he breaks gait. Work in this fashion up to canter. BELIEVE it or NOT all this hard work will pay off. Within a month or two at the most you find yourself riding across the open with a steady horse. All of this work should steady him in a trailer as well. PATIENCE is the key here. If you continue this ground work you could get him to the point where he will follow you to his stall without even having to touch his lead rope or his halter. If you have to snap your fingers to get his attention and to stay focused on you instead of looking off in the distance then do it. Keep his eye on you. Make it as fun as possible for the two of you even though it is a lot of work. Your horse just needs to learn what you want. The previous owner spent years running this horse, it won't change over night.
Good Luck
You do have to go back to ground work and lunge work. I don't like using round pens for lunge work, so you just need a lunge line. Use it with a very simple bit, preferable a jointed full cheek or a jointed loose ring snaffle. He needs to learn voice commands.
Start with a lead line walking around. When you start to walk forward, cluck to him and say "Walk" and at the same time bring your shoulders forward with an exaggerated/obvious motion. When you want him to stop pull back on the lead line and with an assertive voice (doesn't mean loud or forceful, say it because you know your horse is going to obey) say "Whoa" while at the same time square your shoulders back. These little visual cues will help your horse learn the vocal cues. He'll pick up your visual signals then associate them with the vocal cues. Eventually you won't have to exaggerate your shoulder movement and it will be barely noticable, except to your horse. Sometimes after you stop, just make your horse stand just for a minute at first then gradually lengthen the time you are just standing with him. You will be so incredibly bored! Don't forget the fly spray either or it will be torture. Ultimately he should stand for 10 minutes without moving a hoof. It's a long time to do absolutely nothing! *laughs* Don't let him graze or sniff around. He can look around all he wants, but he can't move his feet. If he moves his feet say "whoa" with a quick pull of the line then act like nothing happened. If he stands for another 5 seconds, move him off at the walk. Try again for a longer time before you put him up.
Never say "whoa" to slow down. "Whoa" now and forever means STOP! You can use the word "slow" for now on when he gets too fast, but save that for a later lesson. So for a session or two just walk around on a lead line stopping and walking at random points, never the same place. If your horse likes the trail, walk with him down the trail still working on stopping and walking.
Move up to lunge work whenever your horse picks up the stop and walk vocal cues. You can now teach your horse additional vocal cues, focusing on one at a time like "trot", "canter" and then "slow". To teach slow when on the lunge, get your horse into a trot or canter and when you say "slow" make a quick jerk with the lunge line to get your horse's attention. If he slows tell him good boy and leave his face alone and let him be for a minute. If he breaks, that's fine because he just did what you wanted and slowed down. :)
Everything that he learns on the lunge, all those vocal commands, will be transfered to undersaddle work. So walk, trot, canter, slow and whoa are now your tools, along with your regular cues. Practice, practice, practice.
Since your horse now knows "Whoa", you can use that for when you're mounting. Since he's so use to being ran as soon as the butt hits the saddle, just let your horse walk forward if he does move off when your mounted. My horse is an OTTB, which when being mounted, the horses never even stop walking as the jockey is thrown aboard. As soon as I would get in the saddle she would immediately start walking really fast. I would just let her settle down and walk until she relaxed, then continued our lesson. Eventually she didn't walk off in such a hurry, then one day she didn't move at all. I gave her a big pat and a good girl and let her stand for as long as she wanted. When she walked away by her own choice I let her. With this strategy she realized I wasn't going to make her run as soon as I got on and now after only two months, she'll stand when I mount long enough for me to adjust myself in the saddle, check the girth and my stirrups and then ask her to move forward. If she takes a step or I feel her weight shift I say "whoa" and she stands.
I would suggest doing this with your horse.
I would give u a long answer but I see u already have a few of them. But most important to remember is have a lot of patience and don't punish bad behavior but always reward good behavior.
My horse used to never stand for mounting..
I would walk up like I was going to get on, and as soon as he started to walk I grabbed the rein closes to me (left) so his head was pulled in. This will make him walk in a tight circle. Now the second he stops walking release the pressure and try to get on. If he starts walking again repeat. It will only take a couple of days for him to learn.
Please don't take this offensively, but I have a question. If he was so high strung what made you get him..? just curious.
Best of luck
You might want to try looking at the same type of transition training they do for retired race horses. Many of the problems you mentioned are similar to that of a horse that used to race. Try this website for some great info.
http://www.horseadoption.com/training.ht.
well i had a horse like that. first before ur gonna ride or trailer him, lunge him. get some of his energy out so he's not so wild and impatient. but that doesn't mean u can't be in control he's just not going to be so wild.
Can you give me some advice on guinea pig? What sex is better a boy or girl?
Answers:
Guinea pigs require lots of care. They are herd animals, and do much better in a same-sex pair than alone. Guinea pigs live, on average, 5 to 7 years. Do NOT house your guinea pig on a cage with a wire bottom. These types of cages can cause bumblefoot, which is a serious and painful foot injury. Make sure you have a large enough cage to house your new friend. Pet store cages are often too small. You can build your own cage, which will be bigger and less expensive than anything you can buy in a store. See www.guineapigcages.com for information.
Guinea pigs require vitamin C in their diet. Make sure you are feeding a high quality pellet, such as Oxbow, with fortified vitamin C. Stay away from food with colored bits and dried fruit/nuts in it. This is just like junk food and doesn't have very high nutritional value to it.
Do not put vitamin drops in your guinea pig's water bottle. Vitamins degrade quickly in water. Also, the drops can change the taste of the water so your pig will not drink as much. It is much better to feed your guinea pig foods high in vitamin C rather than add supplements. Guinea pigs should get one cup of fresh veggies per pig per day. Again, stick with foods high in vitamin C, such as bell peppers, cilantro, parsley - and feed dark leafy greens like kale, romaine lettuce, dandilion greens. THINGS TO AVOID are iceburg lettuce (can cause diahreah), broccoli and cabbage (too much can cause bloat).
Your pig will also need hay at all times. If you are getting a younger pig (under 1 year), alfalfa hay is good. If your pig is older than one year, stick to timothy hay or orchard grass. Alfalfa is high in calcium which is good for a growing pig, but too much calcium is believed to lead to bladder stones in adults.
Things NOT to buy: Do not buy a leash for your guinea pig. They absolutely hate them. Most pigs will either run right out of them, or hurt themselves trying to get out of them.
Do NOT buy one of those large running balls or wheels. Guinea pigs' backs do not bend like hamsters or rats do. Both can cause serious back injury. Guinea pigs can also get their little paws stuck in the bars of the wheels and break them.
Do NOT buy a salt wheel. It is not necessary and guinea pigs rarely use them. Save your money.
Do NOT buy seed sticks or any other type of processed treat. Seeds are very high in fat and pose a choking hazard. A much better and more natural treat is fresh fruit. My pigs go absolutely nuts for apples!
After owning guinea pigs for ten years, I've found that pet stores know next to nothing when it comes to animal care. Their main goal is to get you to buy stuff in their store. Also, many of the food and exercise items sold as being safe for guinea pigs really are not. Again, these companies are trying to get you to buy their products so that they can make money.
Guinea pigs need time outside of their cage. Make sure you have a room blocked off so that they can run around and exercise.
I know it is a lot of information, but it is very important to research the animal you want to keep so that you can give it the best care you can. Please visit the links below for more detailed information. There is really quite a bit to know about guinea pigs than most people realize.
Lastly, visit your local animal shelter or Petfinder to find your new pal. There are so many guinea pigs already in shelters waiting for a forever home. Please do not buy from a petstore. Petstores often sell sick animals. Don't promote the cycle of reckless breeding.
It is a myth that two boars will always fight. I have two boars that get along famously with each other (and no, they aren't siblings). Many people have had sucess bonding two boars. See the Cavy Spirit link for introduction information.
I don't know which is better, but, we had a male that lived 9 years.
Well i have heard its better to have girls cause they get along better as a group or pare. I had two females and they were to peas in a pod.
with males they may get territorial and fight.
Hi, I have had both and the diffrence is tiny, choose the one you like
http://guineapigs.info/
How to Care for Guinea Pigs
Guinea Pigs
Animal Aid
Adapted from Animal Sheltering Magazine.
A descendant of the wild guinea pigs of South America, today's domesticated guinea pig is viewed by many as an "easy" pet for children. Many parents select a guinea pig as a first pet for their child, believing a small pet needs only a small amount of care. It is important to understand that these little guys have lots of requirements, including a roomy cage, specialized diet, daily cleanup, and gentle handling, and that an adult should be the primary caretaker.
1. Make Room at the Inn
They may be small, but guinea pigs require ample space to move about. Make sure their living quarters are at least 18 inches wide, 14 inches high, and 25 inches deep. Guinea pigs housed in larger cages are more likely to be active. Do not use aquariums, as they provide poor ventilation, and mesh or wire-floor cages hurt guinea pigs' tender feet.
When choosing floor linings and cage furnishings, keep in mind that guinea pigs will chew on just about anything to wear down their constantly growing teeth, so everything placed in the cage must be nontoxic. Use plenty of lining material—shredded ink-free paper or commercial nesting materials available at pet-supply stores, for example—because guinea pigs will use the material as both bedding and bathroom.
Remember also to provide plenty of high-quality hay, which these rodents use for nesting and snacking. Do not use materials such as sawdust, cedar chips, or fabrics that may cause respiratory or other health problems. Finally, provide your guinea pig with a gnawing log (such as an untreated fruit tree branch), tunnels to crawl through, and platforms to climb on. Add a heavy food bowl resistant to tipping and gnawing and a water bottle with a sipper tube.
2. Get a Little Closer
Guinea pigs are easily stressed, so they require careful handling. To pick up a guinea pig, slowly place one hand under his chest just behind the front legs, and gently cup your other hand under his hindquarters. Once you have a firm but gentle grip on the animal, lift him. Then immediately pull him close to your chest or lap so he feels safe and doesn't thrash around.
3. Give 'Em Their Greens
Feed your guinea pig a commercial guinea pig food, formulated especially for the species. These herbivores require a lot of vitamin C, so provide veggies such as kale and cabbage and ask your veterinarian about vitamin supplements. Treat guinea pigs to fruits, including melon slices and apples (but remove the seeds, which are toxic).
4. Help with the Cleanup
Guinea pigs try their best to keep clean, fastidiously grooming themselves with their front teeth, tongue, and back claws. But pigs—particularly the long-haired breeds—require frequent brushing and combing to stay clean and tangle-free.
Also, because their cage lining doubles as bedding and toilet, guinea pigs require daily housekeeping assistance. Scrub and disinfect the cage, then let it dry before lining the floor with fresh bedding and replacing the cage furnishings. Also clean the water bottle and sipper tube daily to prevent buildup of food, algae, and bacteria.
5. Pair Them Off
Guinea pigs are happiest when with other guinea pigs, so many pet care books urge owners to keep two or more together. Choose pairs that are the same sex and compatible. (For example, more than two male pigs together are likely to fight.)
Guinea Pig Care Sheet
Physical Description
Guinea pigs are not really pigs but belong to a group of rodents called cavies.
They are small stocky animals with short legs and short necks. This design keeps their mouths close to the ground for eating grass.
Guinea pigs come in a variety of colors and can have from one color to five or more.
Their hair can be short and wavy to long and flowing.
Adults weigh up to 3 pounds and live an average of 4-7 years.
Behavior
Guinea pigs are usually very quiet animals.
When scared, threatened, or nervous they will hide in the closest safe place (i.e. an enclosed tube, box, etc.).
Guinea pigs will communicate with squeaks or whistles, showing distress or contentment according to the volume.
Guinea pigs will give a “purr” or a vibration of the whole body when they like something, such as a pet.
Their teeth are constantly growing and they will spend lots of time gnawing on things. If they cannot keep their teeth worn down, they will become overgrown and may need veterinary attention.
Guinea pigs almost never bite unless mishandled, irritated or taste something on the handler.
Diet
Store bought 1/4 - 1/2 cup guinea pig pellets containing approximately 18-20% protein and 10-16% fiber. Timothy hay should be fed as free choice and they should have as much as they want.
Pellets can be supplemented with fresh foods orange, kale, celery, rutabaga, snow peas, alfalfa sprouts, turnip, cauliflower, parsnip, brussel sprouts, cucumber, carrot, apple, chicory, spinach, tomato, melon, grapes, corn, bell pepper, peas and pear. Be sure these foods are pesticide free.
They will also eat pesticide-free grass and wild plants such as sorrel, dandelion, clover, and plantain.
Too many greens or fruit can cause diarrhea. It is best to provide fresh treats in small amounts — no more than a handful a day.
Guinea pigs need vitamin C in their diet. Kale, cabbage or citrus fruits should be offered daily.
Untreated fruit tree branches such as plum or apple are good for guinea pigs to gnaw on.
Needs
Guinea pigs need physical attention every day.
They must have at least several hours to themselves each day and time to sleep.
They need a clean cage (about 28” long x 14” wide x 14” tall) with fresh water and food.
They enjoy spending time outside in the sun and shade on grass in an appropriately confined and protected structure (walls to stop escape, a roof to protect from hawks, cats, etc. and a place out of the sun to cool down). Do not take them outside if it is over 80 degrees.
They need good bedding (Carefresh or shredded black and white newspaper) that they can burrow in. Never use cedar shavings.
They need veterinary care as any domestic pet might.
Purchasing a Guinea Pig
Guinea pigs can be obtained from pet or feed stores, animal shelters, animal rescue foundations, or breeders.
A few things to remember when you take an animal home:
* Wait at least two hours before you handle the animal — the car ride makes them nervous and they need some time to recover.
* Place the cage in a place that is free from drafts and not in direct sunlight.
* It is best to take the animal out of the cage in the bathroom or kitchen. There are fewer places for the animal to hide and it is easier to clean up any mess that may be made.
* The animals should get fresh food, water and bedding everyday.
* Always place the cage on the floor when you take the animal out.
* Take off the water bottle when moving the cage because the water bottle will leak.
* Please carry the cage from the bottom.
Additional Resources
ASPCA Pet Care Guide for Kids; Guinea Pig, by Mark Evans. $9.95
Guinea Pigs-Proper Care and Understanding; Expert Advice for Appropriate Maintenance, by Kathrin Behrend. $6.95
Taking Care of Your Guinea Pig; A Young Pet Owner’s Guide, by Helen Piers. $5.95
updated 2/03
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Either one by itself is great. There is more upkeep for males, impaction for one. A female is best if you plan to have more than one in the same cage. Males are real territorial and have very blood fights.Only once in a great while will 2 males get along.
There are some good webs posted, check them out.
Can you give me any suggestions on what to name my male Sugar Glider??
*My daughter who lives next door has one and her sugar glider is
"Gertie Girl" .I'd like to find a name equally as cute but macho sounding.
Answers:
I would have to say "sugarbush"
I think it rolls off the tongue nicely and fits for the Beastie
check out this website, there are alot of names on there people have posted and good luck!!
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/namelists.
How about 'Mucho Machacho?'
"COOPER"
How about Havic, Jaber, Mr. Chopers
Call it Mosca Its esay to remmber and its kinda cool.
Mr. Snuggles
or Smeagel
I think "George W" would be a handsome name for your male Sugar Glider!
Hi there.how about Sydney (capital of Australia home to many sugar gliders) or Gizmo (from the movie Gremlins)
Alfonso, HANK, Under Dogg, or perhaps Stanley
I think the name has to reflect the little fella's unique flying ability, and be so irresistible that any female Sugar Glider would agree to a date based just on the name.
My suggestions:
'DREXLER' (this is my favourite)
Based on retired Portland Trailblazers player Clyde 'The Glide' Drexler (I think he's a coach now). Call him 'Drex' for short. Close friends and his owner are allowed to call him 'Clyde' - but only in private, the 'image thing' has to be upheld in public.
My second basketball choice is:
'JORDAN' - ('MJ' for short - just for the 'hangtime' : )
The other way could be to name the little fella after famous WWII aircraft (a time when pilots were real men's men):
'SPITFIRE'
'THUNDERBOLT' ('Bo' for short, hee hee : )
'MUSTANG'
'CORSAIR' ('Corey' for short. When he applies for a housing loan, etc. his full name is given as 'Corey Corsair')
Or, make it more contemporary, as in spacecraft:
'CYLON' (From the 'Cylon Raiders' of Battlestar Galactica)
'VIRAGO' (Star Wars)
'HYPERION' (Babylon 5, 'Perry' for short)
'WRAITH' (from Wing Commander, 'Ray' for short)
'DEATH STAR' (Naah, just kidding : )
Don't forget to give him an impressive titles as well.
Nothing quite like %26lt;puts on deep voice>
'Hyperion, Supreme Conquerer of Space, Time And The Back Porch'.
'Mucho Machacho lol, I love it!! Way to go for that answer!
Biff :)
"Gertie Girl" .I'd like to find a name equally as cute but macho sounding.
Answers:
I would have to say "sugarbush"
I think it rolls off the tongue nicely and fits for the Beastie
check out this website, there are alot of names on there people have posted and good luck!!
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/namelists.
How about 'Mucho Machacho?'
"COOPER"
How about Havic, Jaber, Mr. Chopers
Call it Mosca Its esay to remmber and its kinda cool.
Mr. Snuggles
or Smeagel
I think "George W" would be a handsome name for your male Sugar Glider!
Hi there.how about Sydney (capital of Australia home to many sugar gliders) or Gizmo (from the movie Gremlins)
Alfonso, HANK, Under Dogg, or perhaps Stanley
I think the name has to reflect the little fella's unique flying ability, and be so irresistible that any female Sugar Glider would agree to a date based just on the name.
My suggestions:
'DREXLER' (this is my favourite)
Based on retired Portland Trailblazers player Clyde 'The Glide' Drexler (I think he's a coach now). Call him 'Drex' for short. Close friends and his owner are allowed to call him 'Clyde' - but only in private, the 'image thing' has to be upheld in public.
My second basketball choice is:
'JORDAN' - ('MJ' for short - just for the 'hangtime' : )
The other way could be to name the little fella after famous WWII aircraft (a time when pilots were real men's men):
'SPITFIRE'
'THUNDERBOLT' ('Bo' for short, hee hee : )
'MUSTANG'
'CORSAIR' ('Corey' for short. When he applies for a housing loan, etc. his full name is given as 'Corey Corsair')
Or, make it more contemporary, as in spacecraft:
'CYLON' (From the 'Cylon Raiders' of Battlestar Galactica)
'VIRAGO' (Star Wars)
'HYPERION' (Babylon 5, 'Perry' for short)
'WRAITH' (from Wing Commander, 'Ray' for short)
'DEATH STAR' (Naah, just kidding : )
Don't forget to give him an impressive titles as well.
Nothing quite like %26lt;puts on deep voice>
'Hyperion, Supreme Conquerer of Space, Time And The Back Porch'.
'Mucho Machacho lol, I love it!! Way to go for that answer!
Biff :)
can you give hampsters fresh veggies ??
can you give hampsters fresh veggies , such as carrots lettuce or other things ? my daughter is wanting to do this but i dont know if its safe
Answers:
i used to give them all kinds, they usually love tomatoes, oranges, carrots, kale, alfalfa, grapes, strawberries, apples, melons too.
Be careful with any kind of lettuce, cucumber and things that would typically give a human gas, they have a really hard time digesting these. I'd keep those to a minimum, or not at all!!
Good luck!! Oh, as a treat, I used to put Tang into their water, they LOVE that, and it gives them vitamin C. Just don't make it strong, just enough to flavor the water a bit, and turn it light orange tint.
Yes, they feed them those type of veggies in childrens zoo corners
Sure can
Of course , and they need these things for better health just be sure that the vegetables are cleaned from the cage after the hamster is done, don't allow rotting vegetables inside.
yes of course you can feed them fresh veg not too much though and remove any uneaten veg so it doesnt go mouldy
Answers:
i used to give them all kinds, they usually love tomatoes, oranges, carrots, kale, alfalfa, grapes, strawberries, apples, melons too.
Be careful with any kind of lettuce, cucumber and things that would typically give a human gas, they have a really hard time digesting these. I'd keep those to a minimum, or not at all!!
Good luck!! Oh, as a treat, I used to put Tang into their water, they LOVE that, and it gives them vitamin C. Just don't make it strong, just enough to flavor the water a bit, and turn it light orange tint.
Yes, they feed them those type of veggies in childrens zoo corners
Sure can
Of course , and they need these things for better health just be sure that the vegetables are cleaned from the cage after the hamster is done, don't allow rotting vegetables inside.
yes of course you can feed them fresh veg not too much though and remove any uneaten veg so it doesnt go mouldy
Can you give hampsters baths?
Not like dump them in water but just put some water on them then dry them with a towel?
Answers:
well u could but i wouldn't recommend u could just take a damp wash cloth
They are desert creatures so they are not as enthused about hamster baths as you are.
u put it in the sink and pour water on it.
yeah, towel idea sound perfect, just be sure to no get any water in its ears!! ;)
No it still can get them sick and you may hurt them drying it. They should be clean if you througly clean its cage every day throughy. Hamsters clean themselves all the time. If you take proper care he shouldnt need one.
im pretty sure. as long as u make sure they dont drown
its ok.i have heard of my friends giving their hamsters baths, and turned out fine
Well, I used to give my rats baths. I actually put them in the sink with about an inch of warm water and either baby shampoo or cat shampoo, both of which are very gentle. Just rinse thoroughly.
Or, you could try using a damp washcloth and then drying with a towel. Only do this if you are certain you won't get bit!
go to a pet store they provide bath powder u put the hampster in it no water or cleaning up supplies except a bowl they love it and are used to it so it wont be stressful for the animal
They might not be to happy about it but yes just watch your fingers it could bite you.
I've heard that it's a really bad thing to do, even though I had given one of mine quite a few baths. They're originally desert animals, so they're not really waterproofed. Petstores sell moist wipes to clean your hamster with if it's stinky. Otherwise, you can buy bath dust (like what they sell for chinchillas), which is quite funny to watch them roll around in. .
NO! DON'T DO IT!
THEY'LL GET DISTEMPER
i have a hamster and the way i let him bathe is in sand like a chinchilla they are dessert creatures so hate water..my hamster loves a bowl of chinchilla sand in a bowl big enough for him to roll in :) give it a try x
Answers:
well u could but i wouldn't recommend u could just take a damp wash cloth
They are desert creatures so they are not as enthused about hamster baths as you are.
u put it in the sink and pour water on it.
yeah, towel idea sound perfect, just be sure to no get any water in its ears!! ;)
No it still can get them sick and you may hurt them drying it. They should be clean if you througly clean its cage every day throughy. Hamsters clean themselves all the time. If you take proper care he shouldnt need one.
im pretty sure. as long as u make sure they dont drown
its ok.i have heard of my friends giving their hamsters baths, and turned out fine
Well, I used to give my rats baths. I actually put them in the sink with about an inch of warm water and either baby shampoo or cat shampoo, both of which are very gentle. Just rinse thoroughly.
Or, you could try using a damp washcloth and then drying with a towel. Only do this if you are certain you won't get bit!
go to a pet store they provide bath powder u put the hampster in it no water or cleaning up supplies except a bowl they love it and are used to it so it wont be stressful for the animal
They might not be to happy about it but yes just watch your fingers it could bite you.
I've heard that it's a really bad thing to do, even though I had given one of mine quite a few baths. They're originally desert animals, so they're not really waterproofed. Petstores sell moist wipes to clean your hamster with if it's stinky. Otherwise, you can buy bath dust (like what they sell for chinchillas), which is quite funny to watch them roll around in. .
NO! DON'T DO IT!
THEY'LL GET DISTEMPER
i have a hamster and the way i let him bathe is in sand like a chinchilla they are dessert creatures so hate water..my hamster loves a bowl of chinchilla sand in a bowl big enough for him to roll in :) give it a try x
can you give degu's pine tree branches?
We have some left over Christmas tree branches and I was wondering if they are safe to give to my degu's
Answers:
I wouldn't let them have it.
I found a great site for checking types of wood for my degus: -
http://www.btinternet.com/~p.long/deguto.
"Safe woods include eating apple, hazel, hawthorn and kiln dried pine. These woods must be cleaned and dried before your degu can chew them. Don't give your degu any other types of wood as almost all are toxic to degus."
I don't know what a DEGU'S is. but Pine tree Branch's are not good for any bird species.throw them away..try apple, pear, or cherry branch"s .just be sure you wash them first..my bird's
love to chew on the branch's,,,they make a mess, but it make's them happy
No!, toss them away. pine branches can cause all sorts of problems for rodents. especially the sap. give regular cured chew sticks for best results.
Answers:
I wouldn't let them have it.
I found a great site for checking types of wood for my degus: -
http://www.btinternet.com/~p.long/deguto.
"Safe woods include eating apple, hazel, hawthorn and kiln dried pine. These woods must be cleaned and dried before your degu can chew them. Don't give your degu any other types of wood as almost all are toxic to degus."
I don't know what a DEGU'S is. but Pine tree Branch's are not good for any bird species.throw them away..try apple, pear, or cherry branch"s .just be sure you wash them first..my bird's
love to chew on the branch's,,,they make a mess, but it make's them happy
No!, toss them away. pine branches can cause all sorts of problems for rodents. especially the sap. give regular cured chew sticks for best results.
can you give a rabbit a bath? if so how do you wash it?
I am thinking about getting a rabbit but I don't know how tobath them. How do you what do you use to do so? HELP!!
Answers:
sure you can. just buy some pet shampoo and wash it like you would wash a dog or cat.
I have no idea, but I do know you can feed them grass.
yes.go to petsmart/co%26ask for a type os shampoo for rabbits.
Yes you can it is kinda like giving a cat a bath unless they are use to it----it will be messy----
Yes, you can give a rabbit a bath, but they are generally very clean animals. If you do have to give them a bath - which should not be often, mind you - put them in the kitchen sink! Make sure that the water is nice, not too hot, not too cold. As a rule, rabbits do not like water, so they will struggle a bit - so BE CAREFUL! They could hurt themselves and you at the same time. Use a gentle shampoo - something made for animals, not humans, and make sure you don't get ANY water in his ears. When he's done with the bathing aspect of it, try to towel him dry as best as you can and brush him out. They can usually finish the rest.
I give my bunnies a bath in the sink using pet shampoo. I just use a cup and wet them. I don't get their ears and face wet. Then I put soap in my hands and rub the bunny. Then I use a cup to get all the soap out. To clean the face, i just use a damp washcloth with no soap on it. I don't know if that is the correct way, but my bunnies like it and they are clean and happy.
yah u can but make SUREE the water is not too cold and not too hot. and it can stand water for so long or it can get sick.
go look up it on the web/books but i suppose you can use a gental shampoo (animal or baby shampoo but double check. go to petco or some animal store for advice even if you don't buy from there) and it'll be easier probably with two people (one to hold one to wash)
also make sure you dont' get any in the eyes/ears and make sure you compleatley rinse otherwise it gets itchy and can be bad.
Yes. I have done it MANY times before. Start the sink.on medium temp. If its as hott as you would take a bath in, than its way too hot. Rabbits have sensitive skin. So a little bit warmer than room temp. Put the bunny in the sink, make sure you have a towel and all your supplies with you, use a quater size amount of shampoo and rub on the bunny. Do not scrub, especially if it is a show rabbit, thats how you defeat all the density they have. Wash the shampoo out. Use a dime sized amount of conditioner and rub, then wash out. Avoid the face and ears. You can either blow dry (recomended), or rub her down with a towel and let her air dry while hopping through the house! And now you have a clean bunny!
Yes you can, but a bath can be stressful to rabbits. Only if necessary. They make a dry bath just for rabbits. You can get it at most pet stores. If you have any questions about rabbits especially if they are in house you can check out the National House Rabbit Society. They have a web site. Just type in the title and you should find it. Good luck with your bunnys. :)
Yes you can give a rabbit a bath!!
Rabbits don't need baths unless they get into a mud puddle or something. They will naturally clean themselves. before you get a rabbit you should read the House Rabbit Handbook and go to these sites to see if its the right pet for you.
well don't put it in a sink tub full of water or anything like that,. hold the rabbit in one arm and take a wet towelette with a special animal soap you get from Petco, and wash the animal up. to rinse sit the rabit in the sink with no water in there, then take a cup of water and pour it over the rabbit until soap resen is all gone dry it of with a warm towel softly pat the fur, don't rub.
hope you get your rabbit!
no.it will drown. seriously, go to a library and get a book
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THE PEOPLE WHO TELL YOU TO GIVE IT A BATH!
Rabbits clean their fur just like what a cat does. Here are some reasons why not to give your rabbit a bath.
1. If you get the rabbit too cold, especially with a breeze you can give it pneumonia and in a day or so it will be dead.
2. A bath will remove the natural oils in the rabbits fur, damaging the fur.
If the rabbit has a stain, soak a rag in white vinegar. Wring the excess vinegar out. Work the stain over with the soaked rag. Repeat the same process but with a water soaked rag to rinse the white vinegar out. Then towel the rabbit dry.
Answers:
sure you can. just buy some pet shampoo and wash it like you would wash a dog or cat.
I have no idea, but I do know you can feed them grass.
yes.go to petsmart/co%26ask for a type os shampoo for rabbits.
Yes you can it is kinda like giving a cat a bath unless they are use to it----it will be messy----
Yes, you can give a rabbit a bath, but they are generally very clean animals. If you do have to give them a bath - which should not be often, mind you - put them in the kitchen sink! Make sure that the water is nice, not too hot, not too cold. As a rule, rabbits do not like water, so they will struggle a bit - so BE CAREFUL! They could hurt themselves and you at the same time. Use a gentle shampoo - something made for animals, not humans, and make sure you don't get ANY water in his ears. When he's done with the bathing aspect of it, try to towel him dry as best as you can and brush him out. They can usually finish the rest.
I give my bunnies a bath in the sink using pet shampoo. I just use a cup and wet them. I don't get their ears and face wet. Then I put soap in my hands and rub the bunny. Then I use a cup to get all the soap out. To clean the face, i just use a damp washcloth with no soap on it. I don't know if that is the correct way, but my bunnies like it and they are clean and happy.
yah u can but make SUREE the water is not too cold and not too hot. and it can stand water for so long or it can get sick.
go look up it on the web/books but i suppose you can use a gental shampoo (animal or baby shampoo but double check. go to petco or some animal store for advice even if you don't buy from there) and it'll be easier probably with two people (one to hold one to wash)
also make sure you dont' get any in the eyes/ears and make sure you compleatley rinse otherwise it gets itchy and can be bad.
Yes. I have done it MANY times before. Start the sink.on medium temp. If its as hott as you would take a bath in, than its way too hot. Rabbits have sensitive skin. So a little bit warmer than room temp. Put the bunny in the sink, make sure you have a towel and all your supplies with you, use a quater size amount of shampoo and rub on the bunny. Do not scrub, especially if it is a show rabbit, thats how you defeat all the density they have. Wash the shampoo out. Use a dime sized amount of conditioner and rub, then wash out. Avoid the face and ears. You can either blow dry (recomended), or rub her down with a towel and let her air dry while hopping through the house! And now you have a clean bunny!
Yes you can, but a bath can be stressful to rabbits. Only if necessary. They make a dry bath just for rabbits. You can get it at most pet stores. If you have any questions about rabbits especially if they are in house you can check out the National House Rabbit Society. They have a web site. Just type in the title and you should find it. Good luck with your bunnys. :)
Yes you can give a rabbit a bath!!
Rabbits don't need baths unless they get into a mud puddle or something. They will naturally clean themselves. before you get a rabbit you should read the House Rabbit Handbook and go to these sites to see if its the right pet for you.
well don't put it in a sink tub full of water or anything like that,. hold the rabbit in one arm and take a wet towelette with a special animal soap you get from Petco, and wash the animal up. to rinse sit the rabit in the sink with no water in there, then take a cup of water and pour it over the rabbit until soap resen is all gone dry it of with a warm towel softly pat the fur, don't rub.
hope you get your rabbit!
no.it will drown. seriously, go to a library and get a book
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THE PEOPLE WHO TELL YOU TO GIVE IT A BATH!
Rabbits clean their fur just like what a cat does. Here are some reasons why not to give your rabbit a bath.
1. If you get the rabbit too cold, especially with a breeze you can give it pneumonia and in a day or so it will be dead.
2. A bath will remove the natural oils in the rabbits fur, damaging the fur.
If the rabbit has a stain, soak a rag in white vinegar. Wring the excess vinegar out. Work the stain over with the soaked rag. Repeat the same process but with a water soaked rag to rinse the white vinegar out. Then towel the rabbit dry.
can you give a hamster a bath?
Answers:
NEVER EVER PUT THE HAMSTER IN WATER! Get a small bowl, and an old SOFT toothbrush (or a new one you dont plan to use.. cheap ones work wonderful!) dip the toothbrush in the water, and brush it over the hamster.
OR
A hamster can not be bathed in water as it would deplete their coat of the
natural oils need to sustain the integrity of their fur. I would suggest
chinchilla dust in a bowl and they will crawl in there and bathe
themselves. You might try Google http://tinyurl.com/3383a and read what
others have to say about this as I have never had this type of problem.
Be sure to get the sand as the dust can be too
fine for their respiratory system.
HOPE THIS HELPS!
yes in very very shallow water.with a spray hose on very very softly
yes thanks 4 2 points ha ha lol
Yes you can give a hamster a bath. BUT I would only do so if they were extremely dirty or had something sticky on their fur. Test the water first to make sure it is not too hot or too cold. Use a very mild shampoo (in the UK I would recommend Johnson's Baby shampoo) try to keep it away from the eyes. Then rinse and then using clean water (tested for temperature) rinse again. Then dry carefully in a towel and finish drying using a hair dryer. When using the hair dryer leave one hand between hamster and dryer to ensure that it does not get too hot. You may need to comb the fur as it dries. If the fur is not bad I would not bathe a hamster they don't usually need it.
Sure, just fill up the tub and chuck him in. He'll love it!
I suppose you could, but I would advise AGAINST it. Hampsters are very clean animals - depending on how clean their cage is kept - you could risk giving your hampster pneumonia or make him ill.
yes do it in the sink use a cup to rinse him and use dog shampoo.
You don't need to give hamster a bath..They will clean themself up!
no - unless you want to kill it
Why would you want to?
sure, but i'm not sure he'll know what to do with it
I dont think you should try.
i guess you could use some dry shampoo for pets. i have to for my dog. he hates water and gives me that "DONT TOUCH ME" growl when i try to hose him down.
in extremely shallow water..or with a spray bottle.I'd use a moist wipe or a baby wipe.cause it's already got disinfectant for cleansing.
They don'e like to bath,they prefer to shower.
My friend does it every once in a while. She doesn't use soap though. When I had a hamster I never gave her a bath because she cleaned herself. I don't see a reason to bath one but if it gets really dirty maybe. The thing is they could get pneumonia and die.
yes you can but do not get it in there eyes or mouth
fndfhgjkdsfh yes
i wouldn't cause if they catch a draft that could kill them
NEVER give a hamster a bath! It strips them of the natural oils in their skin, and they could die from it if they get a breeze and are not dry totally. My old hamster died from this, I gave her a bath, and two days later she was sick and then died. PLEASE do not give your hamster a bath!!
NO. u should never bathe a hamster except in an emergency situation such as if they got into oil or something dangerous. they can catch cold easily %26 die. they do a pretty good job of cleaning themselves and should be allowed to do so.
girls are a little smellier than boys some days but it's just natural.
they do not love to swim, like water, nor should they be put in a tub of water. some of these people have obviously done no research %26 just want the points for a guess.
DO NOT LISTEN to any of the idiots who say it is ok. if u do u r putting your hammie's life in danger.
give more info as to why u would like to---such as did u see mites? has he got into something?
yes. pet shops sell critter bath powder.
Why is everyone saying yes?? NO! Hamsters are not only aquaphobic but water can also strip their skin of essential cleaning oils.
yes you can! well at least partially.Rub water and a bit of rodent soap.They even sell stuff at the pet store Just watch the temperature of the water. . And make sure they're ears don't get wet or at least to wet!Dry them off as best as possible.so they wont get sick or get there bedding stuck to them.Oh and Don't do it unless it is absolutely necessary(a cold may get worse and not have a nice results and he might get dry and scratchy skin).GOOD LUCK
The best way to bath a hamster is to dip them in a dip called enduracide II, this dip kill fleas, ticks and mites, and is very safe to use on small pets.
Hi Trish,
This seems to be a question that is frequently asked here on Yahoo Questions. Here's a quick link to all the times it's been asked and answered
http://tinyurl.com/k5c24
the short version is: NO. Normal healthy hamsters should not be bathed.
Can you give a guinea pig a bath?
Answers:
Yes, I have done it. Here is a wonderful site with a step by step bath giving guide .http://jackiesguineapiggies.com/bathingy.
yes iv'e had ginnies all my life , test the temp with your elboy first
No need to.change their bedding often..they are very clean animals. Good luck
Yes! My little siblings have guinea pigs and they have bathed them before and used a hair dryer to dry them. Just be gentle and make sure the water temp. is not too hot or too cold.
u can wet it with water but not with alot of water or its gonna dround so yea. I think no.
Sure! It can't hurt. I give my bunny a bath. Just make sure to use tear free soap like baby soap.
Yes, you can but i think you'll do it more often. But also check if the temp. of the water is good for the guinea pig.Have fun!
yes u can..just use gentle soap in warm water. they hate it but yes u can.
yes, i start with a pan of boiling water and then . oh, wait, that for cooking crabs.
Of course you can. I bath my piggers in the kitchen sink. Make sure the water isn't too hot! I also use a special small animal shampoo. The first time they might act as if they don't like it but after that they seem to love it.
In the summertime it's easier. In the winter you need to avoid drafts and use a not too hot hairdryer and comb to dry they're fur.
Bathtime is funtime.:o)
yep. ur supposed to bath them every 4 to 6 weeks.
Can you fit a rat in a habitrail system?
I know female rats are smaller.
Answers:
No, they might fit in for a few weeks but they will grow out of it and get stuck. So it would be a waste of money. Its unlikely that a rat would chew through the plastic, unless it got stuck.
No, they will eventually out grow the tunnels and such.
Even though female rats are generally smaller, they will eventually be too big to fit in.
I wouldn't put it in a habitrail cage. I hear that they can chew RIGHT through the plastic. They also stink like woah. Plastic can also become sharp and be choked on.
The rat could very well get stuck, especially if she ate a little too much.
Wire cage.
No. Habitrails are designed for hamsters---which really don't get much larger than 3-4 inches in length. In general they're a poor housing choice for ANY animal---they don't offer good enough ventilation, they can be chewed through and otherwise torn apart. They're easily broken (if you happen to drop it), and litter tends to get stuck underneath the plastic lips. A wire cage with bars that are very close together are far more ideal and customizeable (you can add hanging toys, ramps, ect.).
Rats, even female rats, get fairly large (much larger than a hamster) and they get large very quickly. Also, the plastic will easily be chewed through by a determined rat.
Also, rats need to be kept in at least pairs.female or not, a Habitrail system is not adequate to house one rat, much less 2.
Get a more spacious wire cage instead.
Answers:
No, they might fit in for a few weeks but they will grow out of it and get stuck. So it would be a waste of money. Its unlikely that a rat would chew through the plastic, unless it got stuck.
No, they will eventually out grow the tunnels and such.
Even though female rats are generally smaller, they will eventually be too big to fit in.
I wouldn't put it in a habitrail cage. I hear that they can chew RIGHT through the plastic. They also stink like woah. Plastic can also become sharp and be choked on.
The rat could very well get stuck, especially if she ate a little too much.
Wire cage.
No. Habitrails are designed for hamsters---which really don't get much larger than 3-4 inches in length. In general they're a poor housing choice for ANY animal---they don't offer good enough ventilation, they can be chewed through and otherwise torn apart. They're easily broken (if you happen to drop it), and litter tends to get stuck underneath the plastic lips. A wire cage with bars that are very close together are far more ideal and customizeable (you can add hanging toys, ramps, ect.).
Rats, even female rats, get fairly large (much larger than a hamster) and they get large very quickly. Also, the plastic will easily be chewed through by a determined rat.
Also, rats need to be kept in at least pairs.female or not, a Habitrail system is not adequate to house one rat, much less 2.
Get a more spacious wire cage instead.
Can you feed goats dog food?
Answers:
Sure, every time we feed the dogs outside the goats are right up beside them, even though there's plenty of hay and corn. It's a special treat.
Goats will eat just about anything, but need a vegetarian diet.
Yes, crap, you can feed goats tin cans. They are eating machines.
you can give goats dog biscuit but not tinned food my friend has a goat who loves bonios
why would u feed a goat dog food they eat grass hay apples carrots any thing else will make him sick and its not true goats will eat anything my ole billy goat will not eat watermelon..ps keep the cans away from him kidding
if you feed the goats to much feed with corn it will kill them so be carefull
can you feed conkers to a hamster?
i mean this in the non-biblical sense. Horse chestnuts, if you will. Little eep has a collection (of conkers) and wants to know if rodent will be OK
Answers:
Please don't.
We don't eat conkers,we roast chestnuts( not horse chestnuts/conkers)
Hamsters aren't very bright, they make take a little nibble and get a poorly tum.
Aren't you meant to feed hamsters hamster food? Are sunflower seeds or carrot/apple(only small amounts of wet food) a good
treat?
The pet shop will tell you.
Nothing Biblical about it.
M
conkers are poisionous as far as i know
no, but you could throw them at him
LOL. Most Americans don't know what Conkers are.
They are Nuts.
Animals know what to eat and what not to eat. They don't need you to feed them anything. If they are not supposed to have it, they wont eat it.
Maybe you can engage the squirrel in a nice game of conkers if he doesn't want to eat them?
Chestnut yes, Conkers I think not, I think they have toxins in them so I would'nt advise it !
y dont u lasshoo ur hamster round the neck 2 c if he cud bcome a daddy
WTF IS IT DRUGS WIV YOU?
no i dont even no what a conker is lol? well i say no
Answers:
Please don't.
We don't eat conkers,we roast chestnuts( not horse chestnuts/conkers)
Hamsters aren't very bright, they make take a little nibble and get a poorly tum.
Aren't you meant to feed hamsters hamster food? Are sunflower seeds or carrot/apple(only small amounts of wet food) a good
treat?
The pet shop will tell you.
Nothing Biblical about it.
M
conkers are poisionous as far as i know
no, but you could throw them at him
LOL. Most Americans don't know what Conkers are.
They are Nuts.
Animals know what to eat and what not to eat. They don't need you to feed them anything. If they are not supposed to have it, they wont eat it.
Maybe you can engage the squirrel in a nice game of conkers if he doesn't want to eat them?
Chestnut yes, Conkers I think not, I think they have toxins in them so I would'nt advise it !
y dont u lasshoo ur hamster round the neck 2 c if he cud bcome a daddy
WTF IS IT DRUGS WIV YOU?
no i dont even no what a conker is lol? well i say no
Can you feed a french lop eared rabbit greens because i heard you cannot?
i heard you can only give them a very little bit of greens i know other types eat as much as they want of greens
Answers:
How old is your bunn? Generally, before six months, bunnies' main diet should be hay, water, and lucerne pellets. Some say you can begin introducing vegetables at four months, some say not until six months of age. Most importantly, when you begin to introduce vegies, you must do it VERY slowly and gradually - begin with just one slice or one very small piece of your chosen vegie or fruit, and make sure it doesn't give her diarrhoea over the next 24 hours before giving any more. Please see my own website, where I've written articles on this, at
http://au.geocities.com/leaswebsite/bunn.
You should not give cabbage or lettuce to rabbits - lettuce and cabbage are both very bad for rabbits, can cause diarrhoea and bloat which can kill them -
http://au.geocities.com/leaswebsite/bunn. I have known rabbits who have tolerated lettuce, but if they're not used to it, I wouldn't bother introducing it when there's so many better vegies for them.
Please check out my site at
http://au.geocities.com/leaswebsite/bunn.
for lists of safe and dangerous foods for bunnies older than six months of age, reproduced from the excellent "Rabbitlopaedia" by Meg Brown and Virginia Richardson.
Have a read of these great detailed rabbit sites too -
http://www.muridae.com/rabbits/rabbittal.
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/rabbits/a.
http://www.tagyerit.com/hopline/cold.htm.
http://www.rabbit.org/
http://www.houserabbit.co.uk/
http://au.geocities.com/leaswebsite/bunn. - my own site - please have a browse and enjoy reading!
Stick with "rabbit chow". Too many greens will give them the runs.
rabbits can't have lettuce
I thought superman knew everything? hahaha
I never have heard of that, and my family raised rabbits my whole life.
iceburg lettuce is a no,no amongst small animals and herbivore reptiles. some you can feed romaine lettuce to, but at very small quantities. actually, i wouldn't even do that. cabbage is good for them. carrots too. apples are great!
Rabbits are rabbits. Whether they have long, floppy ears or not, they can and need to eat at least 2 cups of fresh, dark, leafy greens every day. They need to get a good variety so that they can get all the vitamins and minerals that they need. Some good choices are: romaine lettuce, bok choy, watercress, escarole, kale, kholorabi (just the leaves), carrot tops (you don't want to give a rabbit too many carrots, because they are very sweet and can cause the runs). Things to stay away from include: iceberg lettuce (it has a high water content and no nutritional value), cabbage (can cause the runs), carrots (once in a while is okay, but not more than once or twice a week), celery (same as iceberg lettuce, high water content and no nutritional value), fruits of all kinds (like carrots, be careful with fruits for the same reason.too much sugar is really bad for rabbits, but giving them a fruit treat once or twice a week usually doesn't cause a problem) For a much more complete list of foods to feed your bunny, check out the house rabbit society's website at: www.rabbit.org
If you have any other rabbit care questions, don't hesitate to e-mail me directly at: kbviolin_98@yahoo.com
Answers:
How old is your bunn? Generally, before six months, bunnies' main diet should be hay, water, and lucerne pellets. Some say you can begin introducing vegetables at four months, some say not until six months of age. Most importantly, when you begin to introduce vegies, you must do it VERY slowly and gradually - begin with just one slice or one very small piece of your chosen vegie or fruit, and make sure it doesn't give her diarrhoea over the next 24 hours before giving any more. Please see my own website, where I've written articles on this, at
http://au.geocities.com/leaswebsite/bunn.
You should not give cabbage or lettuce to rabbits - lettuce and cabbage are both very bad for rabbits, can cause diarrhoea and bloat which can kill them -
http://au.geocities.com/leaswebsite/bunn. I have known rabbits who have tolerated lettuce, but if they're not used to it, I wouldn't bother introducing it when there's so many better vegies for them.
Please check out my site at
http://au.geocities.com/leaswebsite/bunn.
for lists of safe and dangerous foods for bunnies older than six months of age, reproduced from the excellent "Rabbitlopaedia" by Meg Brown and Virginia Richardson.
Have a read of these great detailed rabbit sites too -
http://www.muridae.com/rabbits/rabbittal.
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/rabbits/a.
http://www.tagyerit.com/hopline/cold.htm.
http://www.rabbit.org/
http://www.houserabbit.co.uk/
http://au.geocities.com/leaswebsite/bunn. - my own site - please have a browse and enjoy reading!
Stick with "rabbit chow". Too many greens will give them the runs.
rabbits can't have lettuce
I thought superman knew everything? hahaha
I never have heard of that, and my family raised rabbits my whole life.
iceburg lettuce is a no,no amongst small animals and herbivore reptiles. some you can feed romaine lettuce to, but at very small quantities. actually, i wouldn't even do that. cabbage is good for them. carrots too. apples are great!
Rabbits are rabbits. Whether they have long, floppy ears or not, they can and need to eat at least 2 cups of fresh, dark, leafy greens every day. They need to get a good variety so that they can get all the vitamins and minerals that they need. Some good choices are: romaine lettuce, bok choy, watercress, escarole, kale, kholorabi (just the leaves), carrot tops (you don't want to give a rabbit too many carrots, because they are very sweet and can cause the runs). Things to stay away from include: iceberg lettuce (it has a high water content and no nutritional value), cabbage (can cause the runs), carrots (once in a while is okay, but not more than once or twice a week), celery (same as iceberg lettuce, high water content and no nutritional value), fruits of all kinds (like carrots, be careful with fruits for the same reason.too much sugar is really bad for rabbits, but giving them a fruit treat once or twice a week usually doesn't cause a problem) For a much more complete list of foods to feed your bunny, check out the house rabbit society's website at: www.rabbit.org
If you have any other rabbit care questions, don't hesitate to e-mail me directly at: kbviolin_98@yahoo.com
Can you feed a Degus Hampster treats?
Our hampster died and we have carrot treats that we gave him and now we have a degus and I was wondering if you can feed them to degus?
Answers:
u had better not
NO! They are basically diabetics! Oh yeah do you have two?? Degus I mean?
No, you can never feed a degu pre-packaged treats of any sort without sending it into diabetes. Good grief, didn't you read about degus and their care before you got one?? Or did you just buy one because you thought it was cute and darling? Get a book, and most importantly, read the book, and make sure you keep it entertained, otherwise it will eat you out of cages. Also, keep it on the appropriate diet, otherwise you will make it diabetic, which will in turn give it cataracts, so you will have a sick, blind degu.
Always be informed before you get a pet, sweetheart. That is my biggest pet peeve!
Lisa and the Wheeks and Squeaks GP Rescue
Answers:
u had better not
NO! They are basically diabetics! Oh yeah do you have two?? Degus I mean?
No, you can never feed a degu pre-packaged treats of any sort without sending it into diabetes. Good grief, didn't you read about degus and their care before you got one?? Or did you just buy one because you thought it was cute and darling? Get a book, and most importantly, read the book, and make sure you keep it entertained, otherwise it will eat you out of cages. Also, keep it on the appropriate diet, otherwise you will make it diabetic, which will in turn give it cataracts, so you will have a sick, blind degu.
Always be informed before you get a pet, sweetheart. That is my biggest pet peeve!
Lisa and the Wheeks and Squeaks GP Rescue
can you explain to me..what is bigfoot?
Answers:
Read below lolol
Bigfoot or Sasquatch, large apelike creature reportedly sighted hundreds of times in the United States and Canada (most often in the Pacific Northwest) since the mid-19th cent. Similar to Asia's abominable snowman, Bigfoot is variously described as standing 7鈥?0 ft (2鈥? m) tall and weighing over 500 lb (227 kg), with footprints 17 in. (43 cm) long. Sasquatch is a Native American name for the creature. Most scientists discount the existence of Bigfoot, and some supposed footprints of the animal are known to be hoaxes, such as those produced by Ray L. Wallace in Humboldt co., Calif., in 1958.
A LARGE LEG/FOOT
supposedly a very tall, hairy creature of unknown origin, aka sasquach. Try going to http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=a0ogkltbuavfry.
Sasquatch
Location: Canada
Sasquatch is the Canadian counterpart of Bigfoot. It is also one of the most common names given to a creature that resembles a large apelike biped. The word Sasquatch is an indian word that means "Hairy Man" this more than defines the creature as a large apelike biped which stands 6-9' tall and has hair all over his body.
Sasquatch sightings date back, in Canada, as early as the 1800s. The sighting of foot prints and even some accounts of Sasquatch captures were reported even back then
big foot is a size 18 DDD
size 16 eee
Can you eat slugs ?
Snails, yes, I know and a slug, surely, is just a homeless snail.
Do you think the flavour of the snail`s vagrant cousin would be improved or impaired by having it`s body exposed to the elements for the duration of it`s, frankly, peculiar life ?
Recipe suggestions are very welcome, we all love to cook now don`t we !
Answers:
let me have it it for my artificial snail racing first(see my questions) then we can round them all up and have slug casserole
no
dont please.
You can, why you would want to I have no idea.
Sure. Should be easier to eat than those little bastards that won't come out their houses.
Egocentric animals, really.
try it and see. add some viegar and salt to taste.
slug, surely, is just a homeless snail.
LOL
I wouldn't suggest trying it. I can't imagine wanting to eat something like that.
Best raw with a pinch of salt.
eww, this question has upsetted my stomack:( feeling sick:(
Slugs cooked in Bitter or even Lager, disgusting I feel sick now
i'm more curious as to why you put this under Insurance. Slugs.. i'm not sure about that one, but one can always try. what about barbeque? that never fails.
I guess you could lightly crumb them..deep fry and serve them on a lovely bunch of lettuce leaves..yum yum. not!!
http://www.hallman.org/indian/slug.html.
Yuk, Im sure you can but not my idea of good food.
You can, but you shouldn't.
mmm good source of protein! You eat some! I'll pass.
you go right ahead. a little garlic and oil prob be good.ugh.
They did it on fear factor. They are REALLY slimey and personally i can't see why anyone would even want to try to eat one. But, hey, to each his own.
only if your fast enough to catch them.
Definitely don't add salt- it will just bubble and foam into a great big mess.
I would cook it- add it to a salad. Who knows, it may be considered an American Delicacy someday!
Yack!!Recipe idea ..Throw salt all over it and watch it disintegrate!
Why not, once you get past the slime and them little antenna's tickling your tonsils, you'll be good to go
Sure, they will slide right down your throat with very little effort. I used to feed my pet snake slugs.
Hello Dad you're a fool! Stop bothering these people with your silly questions.
P.S. Shouldn't this be in the 'Food and Drink' section?
BLAH!! Excuse me while I .bla.
Do you think the flavour of the snail`s vagrant cousin would be improved or impaired by having it`s body exposed to the elements for the duration of it`s, frankly, peculiar life ?
Recipe suggestions are very welcome, we all love to cook now don`t we !
Answers:
let me have it it for my artificial snail racing first(see my questions) then we can round them all up and have slug casserole
no
dont please.
You can, why you would want to I have no idea.
Sure. Should be easier to eat than those little bastards that won't come out their houses.
Egocentric animals, really.
try it and see. add some viegar and salt to taste.
slug, surely, is just a homeless snail.
LOL
I wouldn't suggest trying it. I can't imagine wanting to eat something like that.
Best raw with a pinch of salt.
eww, this question has upsetted my stomack:( feeling sick:(
Slugs cooked in Bitter or even Lager, disgusting I feel sick now
i'm more curious as to why you put this under Insurance. Slugs.. i'm not sure about that one, but one can always try. what about barbeque? that never fails.
I guess you could lightly crumb them..deep fry and serve them on a lovely bunch of lettuce leaves..yum yum. not!!
http://www.hallman.org/indian/slug.html.
Yuk, Im sure you can but not my idea of good food.
You can, but you shouldn't.
mmm good source of protein! You eat some! I'll pass.
you go right ahead. a little garlic and oil prob be good.ugh.
They did it on fear factor. They are REALLY slimey and personally i can't see why anyone would even want to try to eat one. But, hey, to each his own.
only if your fast enough to catch them.
Definitely don't add salt- it will just bubble and foam into a great big mess.
I would cook it- add it to a salad. Who knows, it may be considered an American Delicacy someday!
Yack!!Recipe idea ..Throw salt all over it and watch it disintegrate!
Why not, once you get past the slime and them little antenna's tickling your tonsils, you'll be good to go
Sure, they will slide right down your throat with very little effort. I used to feed my pet snake slugs.
Hello Dad you're a fool! Stop bothering these people with your silly questions.
P.S. Shouldn't this be in the 'Food and Drink' section?
BLAH!! Excuse me while I .bla.
can you do CPR on animals?
If an animal is having difficulty breathing, can humans perform CPR on them, or only vets? This is NOT a joke! It's a serious question.
Answers:
Yes, you can do CPR on animals. And you don't have to pull their tongue out to do it neither. Animal anatomy won't allow for the tongue to FALL back into their throat, but in some dogs it can be shoved there by a stick while playing, but that's a rare accident.
Be aware that CPR is not for animals that have DIFFICULTY breathing. As long as there is some form of air exchange do not force air into an animal. It's a good way to end up getting bit.
If the animal has stopped breathing breath into their whole snout carefully.
Chest compressions are hard to do on animals, but possible as well.
I had to do rescue breathing on my 5 month old ferret Bart after he got crushed under a heavy piece of furniture. He passed out and stopped breathing. His heart rate was getting slower. I put his whole snout in my mouth and slowly gave a breath. I put my hands around his chest to feel for expansion to make sure I was inflating his lungs and not over doing it. I let his lungs deflate and did it again, about 4 or 5 times before he started breathing on his own. He ended up going into shock, with a faint thready pulse, drifting in and out of consciousness. I rushed him to the vet who treated him for shock with SQ injections. He also put him on Prednisone for a week to prevent swelling of the soft tissue in the neck region. Bart is fine now. Imagine, I rescue him from a shelter just days before he and his buddy Ferret Bueller were supposed to be put to sleep and then I almost killed him myself. I felt so bad.
PS: be aware that CPR(on animals in both cardiac AND respiratory ARREST) is a wonderful tool, but does not work all the time. Matter of fact, it usually doesn't, but it's always worth a shot.
Yes, although CPR is not for difficulty breathing, it's for when breathing and pulse are both absent.
Yes you can and here are the directions:
YES, and have taken 2 courses. Check with your vet or even the Red Cross. My local Red Cross offers classes which include first aid and safety for pets.
Good luck!
Yes you can, a police officer resuscitated a dalmation by closing its muzzle and blowing air directly into its nose every 3 seconds, its called mouth to snout resuscitation and has been done for years on dogs and cats, so I suppose it could be done on any animal as well.
ya!! sure!! but plz dont try that at home.
Why would you want to do it on a animal that is having trouble breathing? It would only make things worse at that point. CPR is for when a person or animal isn't breathing. Note that with an animal you need to cover the nose, or just breath into both. Check compressions are very hard to do on most animals.
Probably one of the most important things you can do after SAFETY is to make sure cat is breathing. To do this, you want to gently tap your cat and call out their name to see if they move. Then lean down close and LOOK, LISTEN AND FEEL for breathing.
Look: at the chest of the animal to see if it's moving.
Listen: to see if you can hear them breathing.
Feel: on your cheek or back of your hand for a breath.
If your cat is not breathing, pull their tongue just a little bit, close the mouth and tilt their head just a little to open their Airway. Give Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation. You'll want to give them just enough air to make the chest rise. Remember not to give too much air! You don't want to hurt them.
This means you're checking to see if their heart is working OK. To do that you must check for a heart beat which is called a pulse. There are pulse points located in various areas on your cat. For a cat the best place to find the pulse is on the outside of the left front leg, just behind the shoulder. This is called an Apical Pulse.
Rescue Breathing is when you have to breath for your cat because they are not breathing on their own. You do this when your cat has a pulse but is not breathing. For cats give 1 breath every 2 seconds.
CPR: First do your ABC's, don't forget to LOOK, LISTEN, and FEEL for breathing. CPR can only be performed if your dog or cat is not breathing and has no pulse.
If there is no Pulse, start CPR
Place the cat flat on the ground. Then put your hands on either side of the animal's chest, right behind the shoulder blades with your palms over the heart (sandwiching the animal's chest between both hands). Compress approximately 陆 - 1 inch deep. After 1 minute, check for a pulse again.
Give 1 breath every 3 compressions.
This was a great question!
I READ THAT BLOWING IN THEIR NOSE IS DOG CPR. IT REALLY WORKED WITH MY DOG.
Hi
Yes you can do CPR on an animal if you know what to do. I have had training in cpr for humans. Just compress the animals chest a little, not too much, and blow in their nose, not directly if it's a small animal, make sure the mouth is closed. Keep doing it until the animal wakes up. If it doesn't, well. I have done cpr on a bird once and it lived for awhile and then keeled over for good. Also did cpr on my pet squirrel that was eating on the table and accidently back into the saw blade on the wall. It hit her in the back and she went into convultions and keeled over. Did cpr on her right away and she came back to life. But her lower back legs and feet did not work. Uh oh! Took her to the vet right away but there was not any thing he could do for her. She did live for a long time and had a litter of babies. She lived with my neighbour for about a year before she bought it. My neighbour did not know what happened too her. Oh, if you can get the animal to the vet do it, after cpr, if it needs it. If the animal is just having trouble breathing get it to the vet right away! If it's a wild animal stay away from it. And call the police! Hope this helps. Oh, if the animal is fairly good sized, i.e dog or cat or bigger blow directly into their nose but not too hard, just enough to make the chest rise and then let the air out and repeat it. And you have too compress the chest too, to compress the heart. But not too much depending on the animal.
cjrjr507
Yes you can do mouth-to-nose resuscitation on animals like cats and dogs like you would with do mouth-to-mouth with humans.
YES they can.
DO you have a sick animal? GO to the VET.
CPR varies from animal to animal. It is not like CPR for humans and compressions are given differently etc.
Animal Medicine is different from Human Medicine in part because each species has its own anatomy. for us Humans we are all mostly laid out the same. all our hearts young and old work the same and are in the same place. etc. for animals this can and is different among the species..
If you have a sick animal call or visit your VET he or she can advise you best.
If you are just asking or wantt o get some training in this. call your local ASPCA,, or Vet clinic and ask them as they may be able to tell you where you could do this.
Good Luck
Wismom
yes. But only if they acually are not breathing at all.
You can get certified in animal CPR
Answers:
Yes, you can do CPR on animals. And you don't have to pull their tongue out to do it neither. Animal anatomy won't allow for the tongue to FALL back into their throat, but in some dogs it can be shoved there by a stick while playing, but that's a rare accident.
Be aware that CPR is not for animals that have DIFFICULTY breathing. As long as there is some form of air exchange do not force air into an animal. It's a good way to end up getting bit.
If the animal has stopped breathing breath into their whole snout carefully.
Chest compressions are hard to do on animals, but possible as well.
I had to do rescue breathing on my 5 month old ferret Bart after he got crushed under a heavy piece of furniture. He passed out and stopped breathing. His heart rate was getting slower. I put his whole snout in my mouth and slowly gave a breath. I put my hands around his chest to feel for expansion to make sure I was inflating his lungs and not over doing it. I let his lungs deflate and did it again, about 4 or 5 times before he started breathing on his own. He ended up going into shock, with a faint thready pulse, drifting in and out of consciousness. I rushed him to the vet who treated him for shock with SQ injections. He also put him on Prednisone for a week to prevent swelling of the soft tissue in the neck region. Bart is fine now. Imagine, I rescue him from a shelter just days before he and his buddy Ferret Bueller were supposed to be put to sleep and then I almost killed him myself. I felt so bad.
PS: be aware that CPR(on animals in both cardiac AND respiratory ARREST) is a wonderful tool, but does not work all the time. Matter of fact, it usually doesn't, but it's always worth a shot.
Yes, although CPR is not for difficulty breathing, it's for when breathing and pulse are both absent.
Yes you can and here are the directions:
YES, and have taken 2 courses. Check with your vet or even the Red Cross. My local Red Cross offers classes which include first aid and safety for pets.
Good luck!
Yes you can, a police officer resuscitated a dalmation by closing its muzzle and blowing air directly into its nose every 3 seconds, its called mouth to snout resuscitation and has been done for years on dogs and cats, so I suppose it could be done on any animal as well.
ya!! sure!! but plz dont try that at home.
Why would you want to do it on a animal that is having trouble breathing? It would only make things worse at that point. CPR is for when a person or animal isn't breathing. Note that with an animal you need to cover the nose, or just breath into both. Check compressions are very hard to do on most animals.
Probably one of the most important things you can do after SAFETY is to make sure cat is breathing. To do this, you want to gently tap your cat and call out their name to see if they move. Then lean down close and LOOK, LISTEN AND FEEL for breathing.
Look: at the chest of the animal to see if it's moving.
Listen: to see if you can hear them breathing.
Feel: on your cheek or back of your hand for a breath.
If your cat is not breathing, pull their tongue just a little bit, close the mouth and tilt their head just a little to open their Airway. Give Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation. You'll want to give them just enough air to make the chest rise. Remember not to give too much air! You don't want to hurt them.
This means you're checking to see if their heart is working OK. To do that you must check for a heart beat which is called a pulse. There are pulse points located in various areas on your cat. For a cat the best place to find the pulse is on the outside of the left front leg, just behind the shoulder. This is called an Apical Pulse.
Rescue Breathing is when you have to breath for your cat because they are not breathing on their own. You do this when your cat has a pulse but is not breathing. For cats give 1 breath every 2 seconds.
CPR: First do your ABC's, don't forget to LOOK, LISTEN, and FEEL for breathing. CPR can only be performed if your dog or cat is not breathing and has no pulse.
If there is no Pulse, start CPR
Place the cat flat on the ground. Then put your hands on either side of the animal's chest, right behind the shoulder blades with your palms over the heart (sandwiching the animal's chest between both hands). Compress approximately 陆 - 1 inch deep. After 1 minute, check for a pulse again.
Give 1 breath every 3 compressions.
This was a great question!
I READ THAT BLOWING IN THEIR NOSE IS DOG CPR. IT REALLY WORKED WITH MY DOG.
Hi
Yes you can do CPR on an animal if you know what to do. I have had training in cpr for humans. Just compress the animals chest a little, not too much, and blow in their nose, not directly if it's a small animal, make sure the mouth is closed. Keep doing it until the animal wakes up. If it doesn't, well. I have done cpr on a bird once and it lived for awhile and then keeled over for good. Also did cpr on my pet squirrel that was eating on the table and accidently back into the saw blade on the wall. It hit her in the back and she went into convultions and keeled over. Did cpr on her right away and she came back to life. But her lower back legs and feet did not work. Uh oh! Took her to the vet right away but there was not any thing he could do for her. She did live for a long time and had a litter of babies. She lived with my neighbour for about a year before she bought it. My neighbour did not know what happened too her. Oh, if you can get the animal to the vet do it, after cpr, if it needs it. If the animal is just having trouble breathing get it to the vet right away! If it's a wild animal stay away from it. And call the police! Hope this helps. Oh, if the animal is fairly good sized, i.e dog or cat or bigger blow directly into their nose but not too hard, just enough to make the chest rise and then let the air out and repeat it. And you have too compress the chest too, to compress the heart. But not too much depending on the animal.
cjrjr507
Yes you can do mouth-to-nose resuscitation on animals like cats and dogs like you would with do mouth-to-mouth with humans.
YES they can.
DO you have a sick animal? GO to the VET.
CPR varies from animal to animal. It is not like CPR for humans and compressions are given differently etc.
Animal Medicine is different from Human Medicine in part because each species has its own anatomy. for us Humans we are all mostly laid out the same. all our hearts young and old work the same and are in the same place. etc. for animals this can and is different among the species..
If you have a sick animal call or visit your VET he or she can advise you best.
If you are just asking or wantt o get some training in this. call your local ASPCA,, or Vet clinic and ask them as they may be able to tell you where you could do this.
Good Luck
Wismom
yes. But only if they acually are not breathing at all.
You can get certified in animal CPR
Can you cuddle with chinchillas?
Yeah I might get one and I was wondering what is the level that you cuddle them.
Answers:
It really depends on the chinchilla and what age you get it. My suggestion would be to find a breeder near you using the Chinchilla Breeders Directory at:
http://www.chinchillaclub.com/breeder/.
Breeders are usually cheaper than pet stores and you can get one at around 8 weeks old, just after weaning. When you buy one at this age it is missing its mother and looking for someone to bond to. If you spend a lot of time with it, it will bond to you and you will have a friend for life.
Some chinchillas are more hyper than others. Out of my 110 chinchillas I have a few that would love nothing more than to sit in my lap and cuddle, but this is rare. Usually they would rather explore. They do love to be scratched between the ears and will happily run to the front of the cage for some attention. At play time they prefer to climb all over you rather than sit still.
If you are looking for something you can lay on the couch and watch TV with you will probably be disappointed with a chinchilla, however if you want a fun pet that will love you but would rather play than snuggle you will be very happy with a chinchilla. They are very social and when you get them from a young age its hard to make them bite! They are sweeties!
Yeah, you can cuddle with them. They are very friendly and are no trouble at all. I saw an episode about them on "Pet Keeping With Mark Marrone".
Mine you can't. He bites. I suggest not getting a chinchilla. Though they are very low maintenance.Ferrets are fun!
yes..they are so incredibly soft and cuddly!! just make sure you take it to the vet after you buy it from the pet store and have it checked out even if the pet store tells you its all good..Im serious!! Have the vet tell you how to care for it and what foods are best for it.Enjoy if you get one!!
i agree with the ferret chick, get one of those. they're way more fun and seem to be easier to keep happy.
probably not they my bite you so get a ferret insted they are so cute
Chinchillas are wonderful pets (I have two). However, they are not cuddlers. You can handle them, let them climb on you, have them perch on your shoulder, pet them, and have them sit in your hands, but chins are not cuddly animals.
Chins are easy to care for, fun to watch, and are very neat pets, but if you are considering a chinchilla because you are looking for a cuddly pet, then I recommend that you choose another animal. Now, you might get lucky and buy from a breeder who is selling a more cuddly chin, but do not get your hopes up. A breeder is your best bet though.you can visit your chin before you buy him or her and see for yourself.
Answers:
It really depends on the chinchilla and what age you get it. My suggestion would be to find a breeder near you using the Chinchilla Breeders Directory at:
http://www.chinchillaclub.com/breeder/.
Breeders are usually cheaper than pet stores and you can get one at around 8 weeks old, just after weaning. When you buy one at this age it is missing its mother and looking for someone to bond to. If you spend a lot of time with it, it will bond to you and you will have a friend for life.
Some chinchillas are more hyper than others. Out of my 110 chinchillas I have a few that would love nothing more than to sit in my lap and cuddle, but this is rare. Usually they would rather explore. They do love to be scratched between the ears and will happily run to the front of the cage for some attention. At play time they prefer to climb all over you rather than sit still.
If you are looking for something you can lay on the couch and watch TV with you will probably be disappointed with a chinchilla, however if you want a fun pet that will love you but would rather play than snuggle you will be very happy with a chinchilla. They are very social and when you get them from a young age its hard to make them bite! They are sweeties!
Yeah, you can cuddle with them. They are very friendly and are no trouble at all. I saw an episode about them on "Pet Keeping With Mark Marrone".
Mine you can't. He bites. I suggest not getting a chinchilla. Though they are very low maintenance.Ferrets are fun!
yes..they are so incredibly soft and cuddly!! just make sure you take it to the vet after you buy it from the pet store and have it checked out even if the pet store tells you its all good..Im serious!! Have the vet tell you how to care for it and what foods are best for it.Enjoy if you get one!!
i agree with the ferret chick, get one of those. they're way more fun and seem to be easier to keep happy.
probably not they my bite you so get a ferret insted they are so cute
Chinchillas are wonderful pets (I have two). However, they are not cuddlers. You can handle them, let them climb on you, have them perch on your shoulder, pet them, and have them sit in your hands, but chins are not cuddly animals.
Chins are easy to care for, fun to watch, and are very neat pets, but if you are considering a chinchilla because you are looking for a cuddly pet, then I recommend that you choose another animal. Now, you might get lucky and buy from a breeder who is selling a more cuddly chin, but do not get your hopes up. A breeder is your best bet though.you can visit your chin before you buy him or her and see for yourself.
can you contract any disease from a domestic bunny?
concerns of pet rabbits and contracting illness or disease
Answers:
Here is a list of diseases that we can get from rabbits:
http://www.medirabbit.com/zoonotic/zoono.
As far as I know the only disease we can pass to rabbits is herpes.
My dad got rabbit fever from getting the blood of a rabbit into a cut. Says it's ugly.
Other resource.
http://www.beaglesunlimited.net/rabbithu.
They say it's a hazard to laboratory staff, plus they got some gruelsome pictures.
well, some of them carry rabies. NOT ALL OF THEM!! dont wanna discourage u. :)
no. not unless the rabbit has rabies, but it would die to quick for it to have the chance to bite you
Answers:
Here is a list of diseases that we can get from rabbits:
http://www.medirabbit.com/zoonotic/zoono.
As far as I know the only disease we can pass to rabbits is herpes.
My dad got rabbit fever from getting the blood of a rabbit into a cut. Says it's ugly.
Other resource.
http://www.beaglesunlimited.net/rabbithu.
They say it's a hazard to laboratory staff, plus they got some gruelsome pictures.
well, some of them carry rabies. NOT ALL OF THEM!! dont wanna discourage u. :)
no. not unless the rabbit has rabies, but it would die to quick for it to have the chance to bite you
Can you chip a tortoise, if so can it be done without anaenthetic?
Answers:
try chipping a potato instead
sure they don't have any nerve endings directly in their shells. kinda like your fingernails
meany
Paint your postcode on it's shell,much simpler.
Why would you want to do that?
If your tortoise is chipped you can repair it with fiberglass.
Reported to the SPCA. No, you cannot and if you do, the SPCA will come and arrest you.
Actually you buy the AVID chip and the Needle to install. You do not need any anisthetic just some alcohol for cleaning. Clean a Leg and insert needle under skin and insert Chip.
Oh and KittyRogers the ASPCA cannot arrest any one in fact they ask people to chip there Pets! Stop answering questions that you know nothing about you Moron!
Leave that turtle alone idiot!
why bother, its hardly going to be speeding of anywhere
why? do you think it's going to do a runner.
yes a tortoise can be chipped get in contact with your local vet they will be able to help sort the correct chip out etc. very responsible idea in todays society all pets should be microchiped for safty reasons and on the off chance anyone steals it hopefully it can be returned well it is easier with a chip than without
Can you change into animals when you're in heaven? I know u cant when ur on earth .sadly..but still?
My thoughts and daydreams
Answers:
Probably
kill yourself and find out..just kidding.i understand the abstract.the need to wonder.but think about stuff before you waste 5 points and my time
admit it noone on here knows, actuallllly noone in the world knows so if you reealllllly think that your gunna get an answer.. FOR-GET-IT!! but i do sumtimes :-) too.
You can do anything or have anything in heaven. If you don't believe this, God will make u happy up there, anyway, and u won't care WHAT you are.
I believe you can i have always believed that
sorry, but no. we are there to praise God, and that will make our lives in heaven so beautiful that we will not even want anything else because everything will be so perfect. so don't worry, hon, everything will be exactly what u would ever want. Jesus Christ loves you, and u will go there to that perfect place with him if you truly believe.
thats reincarnation, and thats against the christian religion.
I have always believed in reincarnation.
Answers:
Probably
kill yourself and find out..just kidding.i understand the abstract.the need to wonder.but think about stuff before you waste 5 points and my time
admit it noone on here knows, actuallllly noone in the world knows so if you reealllllly think that your gunna get an answer.. FOR-GET-IT!! but i do sumtimes :-) too.
You can do anything or have anything in heaven. If you don't believe this, God will make u happy up there, anyway, and u won't care WHAT you are.
I believe you can i have always believed that
sorry, but no. we are there to praise God, and that will make our lives in heaven so beautiful that we will not even want anything else because everything will be so perfect. so don't worry, hon, everything will be exactly what u would ever want. Jesus Christ loves you, and u will go there to that perfect place with him if you truly believe.
thats reincarnation, and thats against the christian religion.
I have always believed in reincarnation.
Can you buy a REAL koala ?
a koala "bear" its not a bear btw lol i heard you could though
Answers:
I don't think you can an you really would not want too. They have a very distinct odor about them and you canot grow euclyptus trees here in the US. We just don't have the conditions for it. Since that is their main foo source it would quickly starve to death and that would be very sad.
No its against the law!! Srry girl!!
Not unless you are the curator of a zoo
that is so mean admire them from afar those poor animals how would you like it if someone caught you a kept you as a pet in a cage there wild animals
What you can buy are Ty Beannie Baby koalas,there are several charming ones, including Koowee, Mel and Eucalyptus. Easier to look after than a real Koala, no gum leaves to find.
depends where u live and u know what customs allow. its there in the black market
Buy yourself a sane brain instead
no :( but that would be SWEET to own a koala!
Answers:
I don't think you can an you really would not want too. They have a very distinct odor about them and you canot grow euclyptus trees here in the US. We just don't have the conditions for it. Since that is their main foo source it would quickly starve to death and that would be very sad.
No its against the law!! Srry girl!!
Not unless you are the curator of a zoo
that is so mean admire them from afar those poor animals how would you like it if someone caught you a kept you as a pet in a cage there wild animals
What you can buy are Ty Beannie Baby koalas,there are several charming ones, including Koowee, Mel and Eucalyptus. Easier to look after than a real Koala, no gum leaves to find.
depends where u live and u know what customs allow. its there in the black market
Buy yourself a sane brain instead
no :( but that would be SWEET to own a koala!
Can you buy a pet monkey in Mexico?
This is a serious question, please no useless replies.
I would like to know if you can buy any type of monkeys in mexico, if they have any and if they are for sale. This could inclue "black markets" I guess.if you could give me an estimated amount of $$ that would nice
thanks!!
Answers:
I lived in Mexico for several years and from my experience, you can buy anything there. Certain birds and animals are 'forbidden', but they are to be found. I've seen several types of monkey's in the market in Ticul. The prices varied between 2000-5000 pesos. US Dollars would be from $175-$450. Now, you may be able to buy them, but you can not get them out of the country legally. It was hard enough to get my dog out, and that's legal. Unless you are flying your own plane and don't get stopped, you could probably smuggle them into US on your own private landing strip. Or if the Yucatan Express is running, it's easier to put an animal in your vehicle to bring back on the ship. Other than this, I know of no way to bring these animals back legally or illegally.
yes
You probably can. But why would you want a monkey.
They throw poo.
yes you can
I think you can get anything there but please don't get a monkey, its cruel and you probably cant give it the time, attention, space, mental stimulation etc. that it will need to be happy. Plus they throw their poop!
I'm sure you could but you really need to do some serious research and make a pro and con list before you get this animal. Also, if it is illegal to have a monkey as a pet you would just be wasting your money if you are caught.
I would like to know if you can buy any type of monkeys in mexico, if they have any and if they are for sale. This could inclue "black markets" I guess.if you could give me an estimated amount of $$ that would nice
thanks!!
Answers:
I lived in Mexico for several years and from my experience, you can buy anything there. Certain birds and animals are 'forbidden', but they are to be found. I've seen several types of monkey's in the market in Ticul. The prices varied between 2000-5000 pesos. US Dollars would be from $175-$450. Now, you may be able to buy them, but you can not get them out of the country legally. It was hard enough to get my dog out, and that's legal. Unless you are flying your own plane and don't get stopped, you could probably smuggle them into US on your own private landing strip. Or if the Yucatan Express is running, it's easier to put an animal in your vehicle to bring back on the ship. Other than this, I know of no way to bring these animals back legally or illegally.
yes
You probably can. But why would you want a monkey.
They throw poo.
yes you can
I think you can get anything there but please don't get a monkey, its cruel and you probably cant give it the time, attention, space, mental stimulation etc. that it will need to be happy. Plus they throw their poop!
I'm sure you could but you really need to do some serious research and make a pro and con list before you get this animal. Also, if it is illegal to have a monkey as a pet you would just be wasting your money if you are caught.
can you buy a long billed corella cockatoo in the uk ?
Answers:
I think you can from a specailist pet shop
I don't know but finches are going cheep(cheap)..OK it's late..I'm sorry.
I hope not. Best left in the wild.
Please, please. please
Before you consider any breed of cockatoo, have a look at http://www.mytoos.com/
Turn the volume up before the page loads.
try looking in a weekly paper called cage and aviary news available at most newsagents
they don't come from UK, it's a tropical bird
you can buy all kinds of parrot. Whether you will find it easy to source one is another matter.
Can you buy a fennec fox legally in pet stores?
http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=1.
The above link leads to a video of one.
Answers:
Halfway down the middle of the page is a link that lists all states and the legality of having a fennec fox in each one. Click on the link that says "[CLICK HERE - FENNEC FOX LEGALITY IN THE USA]" and you'll get your answer. It was updated on 3/8/06 so it's as current a list as I could find.
http://juliahowe.com/foxes/modules/xoops.
Heck NO they are endangered speicies
It depends on your state. Check with Fresh water fish and game on your city. Every state has different rules. Here in Fla it is a class 3 animal so you need to fill out ap from FWFG to keep the animal. but they are VERY high strung animals and nippy at times. you may want to volunteer to get a feel for the animal's personality.
I have no idea why you would want to keep a wild animal captive. Nonetheless, in most states you can SELL exotics, but it illegal to OWN them without proper permits. Check your state. And hey, leave the Steve Irwin thing alone. If you appreciated anything he did, do what you can to continue the cause. Don't sensationalize his death. That's really shallow. Somethings going to catch up with you very soon. Guaranteed!
heck no
The above link leads to a video of one.
Answers:
Halfway down the middle of the page is a link that lists all states and the legality of having a fennec fox in each one. Click on the link that says "[CLICK HERE - FENNEC FOX LEGALITY IN THE USA]" and you'll get your answer. It was updated on 3/8/06 so it's as current a list as I could find.
http://juliahowe.com/foxes/modules/xoops.
Heck NO they are endangered speicies
It depends on your state. Check with Fresh water fish and game on your city. Every state has different rules. Here in Fla it is a class 3 animal so you need to fill out ap from FWFG to keep the animal. but they are VERY high strung animals and nippy at times. you may want to volunteer to get a feel for the animal's personality.
I have no idea why you would want to keep a wild animal captive. Nonetheless, in most states you can SELL exotics, but it illegal to OWN them without proper permits. Check your state. And hey, leave the Steve Irwin thing alone. If you appreciated anything he did, do what you can to continue the cause. Don't sensationalize his death. That's really shallow. Somethings going to catch up with you very soon. Guaranteed!
heck no
Can you butcher a lactating cow?
I have a milking cow with a problem that could become serious, and I want to know if I can still use her for hamburger/sausage meat.
Answers:
i don't see why not,her lactating will have nothing to do with her meat,unless you have treated her with an antibiotic of some sort,then you may have to wait until it is out of her system,i know on the bottle of ivermectin wormer that we use says not intended for cows for slaughter
the auction i go to every tuesday has cows with huge bags of milk,for sale in the slaughter pens,when they run them thru the auction they usually specify whether cow is still good for milking or only intended for slaughter,most of these have problems such as mastitis,or a didn't get bred back after a couple trys that type of thing
why not ask a veterinarian this sounds horrible to eat meat of a lactating cow
McDonalds does every day..that's usually what they buy..sick milk cows.
oh u r cruel, how can u kill an animal, but u in the place of the animal and i come to kill u and make hamburger/ sausage with ur flesh will u b happy and u can use the cow milk to sell u get a living with this and make fenous with the milk, make cheese, yougurth..
i think i will become a vegetarian.
Of course you can. but I would not want to be the one who kills the poor thing
Depends on the problem more than whether or not she's lactating. She may not be considered good for human consumption. If you get her treated by a vet, make sure they know you are considering slaughter since that will affect what medications they can give her. You can also call your butcher - they would know if you can butcher her for human consumption
Is her calf old enough to wean?
Answers:
i don't see why not,her lactating will have nothing to do with her meat,unless you have treated her with an antibiotic of some sort,then you may have to wait until it is out of her system,i know on the bottle of ivermectin wormer that we use says not intended for cows for slaughter
the auction i go to every tuesday has cows with huge bags of milk,for sale in the slaughter pens,when they run them thru the auction they usually specify whether cow is still good for milking or only intended for slaughter,most of these have problems such as mastitis,or a didn't get bred back after a couple trys that type of thing
why not ask a veterinarian this sounds horrible to eat meat of a lactating cow
McDonalds does every day..that's usually what they buy..sick milk cows.
oh u r cruel, how can u kill an animal, but u in the place of the animal and i come to kill u and make hamburger/ sausage with ur flesh will u b happy and u can use the cow milk to sell u get a living with this and make fenous with the milk, make cheese, yougurth..
i think i will become a vegetarian.
Of course you can. but I would not want to be the one who kills the poor thing
Depends on the problem more than whether or not she's lactating. She may not be considered good for human consumption. If you get her treated by a vet, make sure they know you are considering slaughter since that will affect what medications they can give her. You can also call your butcher - they would know if you can butcher her for human consumption
Is her calf old enough to wean?
Can you breed a bay roan to a blue roan?
I have a bay roan stallion that a friend of mine wants to breed her blue roan mare too. Will this cross produce a lethal roan? Will any roan to roan cross be lethal?
Answers:
Depends on the genetics. Do both horses come from both roan parents? If only one parent of each horse was roan, there is a chance for a viable roan offspring. If your stallion is from 2 roans, and her mare is from 2 roans, chances are good it will be lethal.
http://www.horsecolor.com/white_mixed/ro.
I shouldn't be lethal unless either parent is a carrier for a recessive lethal tendency.
LOL, NO, IT IS FINE FOR YOU TO BREED THEM. THATS HOW PEOPLE MADE NEW COLORS OF HORSES BACK IN THE OLDEN DAYS. YOU CAN DO SOME RESEARCH TO GET AN EDUCATED GUESS OF WHAT COLOR YOUR FOAL WILL BE WHEN ITS BORN, BUT TO BE SURE, YOU'LL HAVE TO WAIT AND SEE WHAT COMES OUT. IT COULD BE EITHER A BLUE OR BAY ROAN, A RED ROAN, OR NOT A ROAN AT ALL. GOOD LUCK IF YOU DECIDE TO DO IT!
never hurt to try. go ahead
that would be a cool colored foal. try it cant hurt to try and no it wont be lethal its just a coat color.
Just an FYI for some of the people answering this.Yes, there are lethal color combinations in horses. Genetic defects can arise and cause the mare to reabsorb. I had never heard of a lethal roan until reading the article posted above, but do know about lethal whites.
.doestn lethal mean deadly
im not sure but iv never heard of a cross being lethal. good luck with whatever you decide to do.
I suppose you could if they were attracted to each other because I wouldn't try and force them as I think it's immoral. I believe you could because you get cross breed dogs all the time so why not cross breed horses.
Hope it helps.
Dunno about roan to roan lethals, just lethal white. But if there is a lethal roan, it will probably be recessive and unlikely to show up unless you get 2 recessives for the gene, like with the lethal white.
thats perfectly fine
Answers:
Depends on the genetics. Do both horses come from both roan parents? If only one parent of each horse was roan, there is a chance for a viable roan offspring. If your stallion is from 2 roans, and her mare is from 2 roans, chances are good it will be lethal.
http://www.horsecolor.com/white_mixed/ro.
I shouldn't be lethal unless either parent is a carrier for a recessive lethal tendency.
LOL, NO, IT IS FINE FOR YOU TO BREED THEM. THATS HOW PEOPLE MADE NEW COLORS OF HORSES BACK IN THE OLDEN DAYS. YOU CAN DO SOME RESEARCH TO GET AN EDUCATED GUESS OF WHAT COLOR YOUR FOAL WILL BE WHEN ITS BORN, BUT TO BE SURE, YOU'LL HAVE TO WAIT AND SEE WHAT COMES OUT. IT COULD BE EITHER A BLUE OR BAY ROAN, A RED ROAN, OR NOT A ROAN AT ALL. GOOD LUCK IF YOU DECIDE TO DO IT!
never hurt to try. go ahead
that would be a cool colored foal. try it cant hurt to try and no it wont be lethal its just a coat color.
Just an FYI for some of the people answering this.Yes, there are lethal color combinations in horses. Genetic defects can arise and cause the mare to reabsorb. I had never heard of a lethal roan until reading the article posted above, but do know about lethal whites.
.doestn lethal mean deadly
im not sure but iv never heard of a cross being lethal. good luck with whatever you decide to do.
I suppose you could if they were attracted to each other because I wouldn't try and force them as I think it's immoral. I believe you could because you get cross breed dogs all the time so why not cross breed horses.
Hope it helps.
Dunno about roan to roan lethals, just lethal white. But if there is a lethal roan, it will probably be recessive and unlikely to show up unless you get 2 recessives for the gene, like with the lethal white.
thats perfectly fine
Can you believe how touchy some people get?
Subject: Re: Go * yourself you insensitive **.
Message: Too old, hahahaha. If you really cared, you would be over there helping and supporting the troops. Instead, you probably drive around your Hummer with a yellow ribbon on the back of it, right? That's how you support our troops. Hahahahaha, what a hypocrite you are!Just because you don't use bad words (wow, I'm so impressed with your "politeness") [yeah right], you certainly have a way of belittling people and being nasty which in my book is MUCH worse than calling people names like **.
You obviously don't have one compassionate bone in your body (or is it because you have osteoporosis?)
How can I NOT read your stupid answers.they are all on the cat board. And yeah, I like cats, so it is perfectly logical for me to be there. Mine are all indoor, all spayed/neutered and have all their damn shots before you go on your stupid preaching rampage about your "feelings" for cats.
Answers:
Thanks for sticking up for me to that stupid cat lady. This is what I left to her.
Thanks you to EVERYONE that stuck up for me about this question. It is no secret I DO HATE cats. I will admit all of the questions I have posted are MADE UP.
I do not care that you all know this now because I will ask more and people will not know I am kidding.
I about fall out of my seat laughing at the answers to my questions. I encourage everyone to read them. They are quite funny.
If you are wondering, I am 26, a male, married with 2 DOBERMANS, sell insurance and have not grown up yet. My wife who is a HS teacher laughs her butt off also.
I may change my name but the aviator will remain the same so careful!
What's your point? You provoke people this is what you get. Shut the Hell up if you can't take it.
I think I liked the [yellow ribbon on the Hummer] burn the best.
I resent that What does Maine have to do with it.? Maines a lovely state.
what question are you replying to i would like to read it.I missed this one.
What in the world does that have to do with cats? Oh, I get it, I just saw some of your q%26a. I guess that's what you're trying to do, and it works. Well, have fun.
So, you have also noticed that the "perfect ones" are usually slime and worse then the ones of us people look down on. Welcome to America
You sound kinda touchy! Life will go on, don't worry about people who don't agree with you! No one will agree with everything someone else says, it's called opinion! And it is what you can expect to get when things are posted on the internet for everyone to read!
Everyone's entitled to their opinion.if you don't like the answer, then you shouldn't have asked the question.
Why not just live and let live? Who cares if other people like cats or not? If you don't that's your business and if they do, that's theirs. If you get pi**ed off about that kind of thing, you'll be pi**ed off all the time.
What is this Q about anyway?
I live in Vermont!
i get SOOOOOOOOO stinkin sick of the naturelists!
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr..But what is your Q?
ps. just moved here 1 month ago
Cindy, a lot of folks who love animals regularly read the questions in the cat section. Many are on here to genuinely help other people with their cat questions. Then they see your posts about # whatever reason there is to hate cats, about shooting ones who come on to your property, you know what you've said. Of course they get upset. You've posted your contact information on your profile, so that leaves you open to a lot of people feeling the need to get back at you somehow. We are all free to say what we like here (until we get reported) but is it really necessary to provoke others the way you sometimes do? Show a little compassion. Cats are Gods creatures like everthing else, they are no more "evil" than any other animal (or human!) and deserve to be treated humanely. I've worked in animal rescue for a lot of years and have seen some pretty devastating abuse. The world would be a lot better place if we could treat all animals (and people) with kindness, respect and compassion.
..I read the posts and I agree it's a great idea to register, license, microchip, etc. cats to make them as easily trackable as dogs. Collars with tags, as well as official town records on who owns what animals is a great idea for cats AND dogs. I only lived in one town in my life where registration of cats was required. It breaks my heart to see dead cats lying on the side of the road with no collar, no identification, I feel so sorry for them, but less sorry for the irresponsible owners for letting them out to roam in the first place.
Cindy, I can't believe you just posted this.
I guess I'm not that crazy after all, judging by the responses you got, eh? (She'll know what I'm talking about.) The yellow ribbon on the Hummer was funny though, you have to admit.
Shooting cats is not cool..it's not the cat's fault they are running around free, it's the stupid owners' faults who let them do that and don't get them fixed.
Did you let yourself run out of medication again? Good luck finding someone to prescribe you some this weekend.
wow, what'd u say to piss that person off?? He or she was obviously pissed about something you posted. Hey, It is a free country, when you post on this board, you open urself up to all sorts of stuff like that.
I liked the Hummer/yellow ribbon rant too, that was freaking hilarious, it made me laugh. Thanks, I needed that!
On a personal note, maybe u shouldn't post people's e-mails to u on line. How would you like someone to do that to u?
Message: Too old, hahahaha. If you really cared, you would be over there helping and supporting the troops. Instead, you probably drive around your Hummer with a yellow ribbon on the back of it, right? That's how you support our troops. Hahahahaha, what a hypocrite you are!Just because you don't use bad words (wow, I'm so impressed with your "politeness") [yeah right], you certainly have a way of belittling people and being nasty which in my book is MUCH worse than calling people names like **.
You obviously don't have one compassionate bone in your body (or is it because you have osteoporosis?)
How can I NOT read your stupid answers.they are all on the cat board. And yeah, I like cats, so it is perfectly logical for me to be there. Mine are all indoor, all spayed/neutered and have all their damn shots before you go on your stupid preaching rampage about your "feelings" for cats.
Answers:
Thanks for sticking up for me to that stupid cat lady. This is what I left to her.
Thanks you to EVERYONE that stuck up for me about this question. It is no secret I DO HATE cats. I will admit all of the questions I have posted are MADE UP.
I do not care that you all know this now because I will ask more and people will not know I am kidding.
I about fall out of my seat laughing at the answers to my questions. I encourage everyone to read them. They are quite funny.
If you are wondering, I am 26, a male, married with 2 DOBERMANS, sell insurance and have not grown up yet. My wife who is a HS teacher laughs her butt off also.
I may change my name but the aviator will remain the same so careful!
What's your point? You provoke people this is what you get. Shut the Hell up if you can't take it.
I think I liked the [yellow ribbon on the Hummer] burn the best.
I resent that What does Maine have to do with it.? Maines a lovely state.
what question are you replying to i would like to read it.I missed this one.
What in the world does that have to do with cats? Oh, I get it, I just saw some of your q%26a. I guess that's what you're trying to do, and it works. Well, have fun.
So, you have also noticed that the "perfect ones" are usually slime and worse then the ones of us people look down on. Welcome to America
You sound kinda touchy! Life will go on, don't worry about people who don't agree with you! No one will agree with everything someone else says, it's called opinion! And it is what you can expect to get when things are posted on the internet for everyone to read!
Everyone's entitled to their opinion.if you don't like the answer, then you shouldn't have asked the question.
Why not just live and let live? Who cares if other people like cats or not? If you don't that's your business and if they do, that's theirs. If you get pi**ed off about that kind of thing, you'll be pi**ed off all the time.
What is this Q about anyway?
I live in Vermont!
i get SOOOOOOOOO stinkin sick of the naturelists!
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr..But what is your Q?
ps. just moved here 1 month ago
Cindy, a lot of folks who love animals regularly read the questions in the cat section. Many are on here to genuinely help other people with their cat questions. Then they see your posts about # whatever reason there is to hate cats, about shooting ones who come on to your property, you know what you've said. Of course they get upset. You've posted your contact information on your profile, so that leaves you open to a lot of people feeling the need to get back at you somehow. We are all free to say what we like here (until we get reported) but is it really necessary to provoke others the way you sometimes do? Show a little compassion. Cats are Gods creatures like everthing else, they are no more "evil" than any other animal (or human!) and deserve to be treated humanely. I've worked in animal rescue for a lot of years and have seen some pretty devastating abuse. The world would be a lot better place if we could treat all animals (and people) with kindness, respect and compassion.
..I read the posts and I agree it's a great idea to register, license, microchip, etc. cats to make them as easily trackable as dogs. Collars with tags, as well as official town records on who owns what animals is a great idea for cats AND dogs. I only lived in one town in my life where registration of cats was required. It breaks my heart to see dead cats lying on the side of the road with no collar, no identification, I feel so sorry for them, but less sorry for the irresponsible owners for letting them out to roam in the first place.
Cindy, I can't believe you just posted this.
I guess I'm not that crazy after all, judging by the responses you got, eh? (She'll know what I'm talking about.) The yellow ribbon on the Hummer was funny though, you have to admit.
Shooting cats is not cool..it's not the cat's fault they are running around free, it's the stupid owners' faults who let them do that and don't get them fixed.
Did you let yourself run out of medication again? Good luck finding someone to prescribe you some this weekend.
wow, what'd u say to piss that person off?? He or she was obviously pissed about something you posted. Hey, It is a free country, when you post on this board, you open urself up to all sorts of stuff like that.
I liked the Hummer/yellow ribbon rant too, that was freaking hilarious, it made me laugh. Thanks, I needed that!
On a personal note, maybe u shouldn't post people's e-mails to u on line. How would you like someone to do that to u?
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